1850.] THE FALLS. 141 



of rock spread all across the river, while through the openings 

 between them the water rushed with terrific violence, forming 

 dangerous whirlpools and breakers below. Here it was neces- 

 sary to cross to the other side, in order to get up. We dashed 

 into the current, were rapidly carried down, got among the 

 boiling waves, then passed suddenly into still water under 

 shelter of an island; whence starting again, we at length 

 reached the other side, about a mile across. Here we found 

 ourselves at the foot of a great rush of water, and we all got 

 out upon the rocks, while the Indians, with a strong rope, 

 partly in the water, and partly on land, pulled the canoe up, 

 and we again proceeded. As we went on we constantly 

 encountered fresh difficulties. Sometimes we had to cross 

 into the middle of the stream, to avoid some impassable mass 

 of rocks ; at others, the canoe was dragged and pushed in 

 narrow channels, which hardly allowed'it to pass. The Indians, 

 all naked, with their trousers tied round their loins, plunged 

 about in the water like fishes. Sometimes a projecting crag 

 had to be reached with the tow-rope. An Indian takes it in 

 his hand, and leaps into the rapid current : he is carried down 

 by its irresistible force. Now he dives to the bottom, and 

 there swims and crawls along where the stream has less 

 power. After two or three trials he reaches the rock, and tries 

 to mount upon it ; but it rises high and abruptly out of the 

 water, and after several efforts he falls back exhausted, and 

 floats down again to the canoe amid the mirth and laughter 

 of his comrades. Another now tries, with the same result. 

 Then another plunges in without the rope, and thus unen- 

 cumbered mounts on the rock and gives a helping hand to his 

 companion ; and then all go to work, and we are pulled up past 

 the obstacle. 



But a little ahead of us is an extensive mass of rocks. There 

 is no passage for the canoe, and we must cross to yonder islet 

 far in the middle of the stream, where, by the height of the 

 water, Senhor L. and the pilot judge we shall find a passage. 

 Every stone, even those under water, form eddies or returning 

 currents, where a canoe can rest in its passage. Off we go, to 

 try to reach one of them. In a moment we are in a stream 

 running like a mill-race. " Pull away, boys ! " shouts Senhor 

 L. We are falling swiftly down the river. There is a strong 

 rapid carrying us, and we shall be dashed against those black 



