Products of Industry 419 



In many sections the spinning wheel used by the coast natives is 

 beginning to replace the hand outfit (Fig. 16, No. 5). The mass of 

 fiber is held in the left hand, and a thread from it is attached to a 

 horizontal spindle, which is turned by a cord passing over a large 

 wheel. This method is much more rapid than the hand device, but 

 the thread is less uniform, and it is seldom utilized when a fine fabric 

 is to be woven. Bamboo bobbins, consisting of small tubes, are also 

 wound by attaching them to the spindle shaft, so that the thread is 

 transferred by the revolution of the wheel. 



As soon as the thread is spun, it is placed on a bamboo frame 

 (lalabayan), Fig. 16, No. 2, on which it is measured and made ready 

 for the combing and sizing. As it is taken from the measuring frame, 

 a bamboo rod is passed through each end of the loop, and these are 

 fastened tightly inside the combing device (agtatagodan) by means of 

 rattan bands. The thread is then carefully combed downward with a 

 coconut husk which is dipped in a size of rice water (Plate LXIII). 

 After drying it is transferred to the shuttles and bobbins by means of 

 the wheel described in the previous paragraph or by a more primitive 

 device, called ololau (Fig. 16, Nos. 4 and 4a). This consists of four 

 horn hooks attached to bamboo sticks, which pass through openings in 

 a bamboo tube in such a manner that they slip on each other, and thus 

 produce a wheel of any size desired. 1 The tube fits loosely over a 

 wooden peg sustaining the wheel in a horizontal position, yet turning 

 readily. The loop of threads from the sizing frame is laid on the 

 hooks, from which it is drawn by hand onto the bobbins and shuttles. 

 The next step is to prepare the warp for the loom. The thread is 

 drawn from bobbins on the floor, and is first fastened to peg No. 1 of 

 the warp winder (gaganayan) , as shown in Fig. 16, No. 3. From here 

 it is carried the length of the board, around 5, thence to 6 and back 

 to 1, after again passing around 5. The peg a, which later serves as a 

 lease rod in the loom, is encircled each time by the threads passing 

 between 6 and 5. As the warp is carried from 1 toward 5, it passes 

 outside 2, 3 and 4, but when it is returned to 1, it is inside these pegs. 

 These are the heddle rods of the loom, and loops from them enclose 

 certain of the threads, thus determining the order in which the warp 

 is to be raised in opening the shed. 2 



1 The same type of wheel is found in Java. See Mayer, Een Blick in het 

 Javaansche Volksleven, Vol. II, p. 469 (Leiden, 1897). 



"A similar warp winder is described for Bombay (Brendon, Journal of 

 Indian Art and Industry, Vol. X, No. 82, 1903, pp. 17, et seq.). 



