420 The Tinguian 



The loom, while primitive, is far from simple in its operation. 

 The warp is attached at both ends to sticks or rollers, the far one of 

 which is fastened to a cross timber of the living room (Plate LXVI). 



The web is kept stretched by means of a strap or belt, which attaches 

 to the near roller and then passes around the waist of the operator, 

 who sits on the floor with her feet against a bamboo brace. 1 The 

 arrangement of the lease rod and heddle sticks has been already 

 described ; in addition to these the threads are further controlled by a 

 reed board which acts both as warp spacer and beater-in. All being 

 ready for the weaving, the shed is opened by raising one of the heddle 

 sticks, and a heavy knife-shaped batten of wood is slipped into the 

 opening. This is turned sideways to enlarge the shed, and a shuttle 

 bearing the weft thread is shot through. By raising and lowering the 

 heddle rods the position of the warp is changed as desired, while from 

 time to time the weft threads are forced up against the fabric by 

 means of the reed board, and are beaten in with the batten. Tangling is 

 prevented by means of several flat sticks which cross the warp at some 

 distance from the operator ; while threads which show signs of loosen- 

 ing are carefully rubbed with a waxed stick. 



On this loom the woman produces head-bands, belt, and narrow 

 strips of cloth which are made up into blankets and the like. These 

 fabrics are often in several colors and exhibit many tasty and intricate 

 designs, some of which will be described in the chapter on Decorative 

 Art. 



Manufacture of Rope and String. — At least eighteen trees, 

 shrubs, and vines are used in the making of cordage. 2 When small trees 

 or limbs are used, and the bark does not adhere too tightly to the wood, 

 sections about an arm's length are cut, and two or four splices are made 

 at the top. These are loosened with a knife until there is enough for 

 the hand to grasp, when the bark can be turned back like a glove. 

 Very large sections are held by two men, while a third peels off the 



x For the distribution of this semi-girdle or back strap, see Ling Roth, 

 Studies in Primitive Looms (Journal Royal Anthrop. Inst., Vol. XLVI, 1916, 

 pp. 294, 299). 



'These are: altnau (Grewia multiflora Juss.) ; babaket (Helicteres hirsuta 

 Lour.); laynai — a large tree, unidentified; lapnek (Abroma sp.) ka'a-ka'ag, 

 an unidentified shrub; losoban (grewia); pakak, unidentified; anabo (Hibiscus 

 pungens Roxb.); bangal (Sterculia foetida L.); saloyot (Corchoeus olitorius 

 L.) labtang (Anamirta cocculus) ; atis (Anona squamosa L.); alagak (anona) ; 

 maling-kapas (Cciba pentandra Gaertn.) ; betning and daldalopang, unidentified; 

 maguey (Agave cantula Roxb.) ; bayog — a variety of bamboo. 



