56 EDIBLE AND POISONOUS MUSHROOMS. 



teacup, often no larger than a wine-glass ; 

 the broad gills at first are dirty white, 

 gradually growing deeper in colour until 

 they become black. Before the gills lose 

 their pale colour they are in their prime 

 for culinary purposes, and should be wiped 

 clean from sand, and committed to the 

 tender mercies of the cook. This is one 

 of the few species which a bad cook can 

 hardly spoil, for it is good any way, and 

 cannot be rendered tough by bad treatment. 

 Stewed or grilled, and served on toast, it 

 has much of the mushroom flavour and 

 odour ; but mixed with a hash, or stewed 

 with kidneys, it is irreproachable. The 

 black fluid into which the gills dissolve 

 themselves may be employed as ink, with 

 the addition of a little gum-water. 



