considerations, however, two of these rejected ones are worthy of notice, being rare ; and C. aurantiacus is 

 elegant, its folds are very fine and close, and repeatedly branched, in C. cibarius they are wide apart, and 

 swelling, with many cross wrinkles between. 



Persoon, speaking of this Chanterelle, says " there are places where the inhabitants make it their principal 

 food ". In England it is not common, although in a few spots, an abundant supply may be sometimes met 

 with. It loves elevated woods, under oaks, where at intervals it may be found during the whole period 

 from Spring tiU Autumn ; it affects the " ring " style of growth, and on the open borders of old woodland, 

 may be generally traced in a circular form ; it also grows irregulai-ly among heathy underwood, but never in 

 rank grass nor where the ground is wet from the dripping of trees, or decaying vegetation ; (a favourite 

 habitat, according to Persoon, for the C. mirantiacm, and to wliich he attributes its deleterious qualities). 

 Sowerby says it is found frequently in fir woods, and he knew, and has figured it well, so that no doubt it is 

 so, although our own experience has not verified the fact. Its excellence as an article of food we have per- 

 sonally verified, making it a point of conscience not to recommend in the course of this work, any Fungus 

 wliich has not been fully tried upon our own constitution ; tastes may differ as to what pleases the palate, 

 but unless we can add, " perfectly wholesome " no commendation shall be bestowed. Our testimony then 

 as to Cantharellus cihar'ms concurs with that of the Prench, Austrian, English and Italian authorities which 

 Vittadini winds up with a superlative " sapidissimus ". Some of the continental writers hint, that it is not 

 quite the thing raw, but a meal of any crude vegetable is a hazardous experiment upon EngHsh digestion ; 

 none need hesitate to partake, when cooking has rendered it tender. Trattinick asserts " not only this same 

 Fungus never did any one harm, but might even restore the dead" !^ 



This being the first we notice of the esculent kinds, two observations, which apply generally, wiU not be 

 superfluous. In the first place then they should be brought from their site direct to the kitchen, when, if 

 the period of sending them to table must be deferred beyond a few hours, they should be half-dressed, 

 (thoroughly heated through, so as to check decomposition) and warmed when wanted. Secondly, never allow 

 any to be used (unless Muslirooms for ketchup) when the larva of insects appear on cutting them across, 

 for then, although the nicety of appetite should not revolt, they are undergoing an incipient change towards 

 putrefaction, which is hkely to be prejudicial. 



As far as our Ccnitharellus is concerned, it is very persistent, no external signs of decay manifesting 

 themselves, tiU the plant is much past its prime ; reject therefore tough, flaccid, light specimens, selecting 

 only such as are crisp and comparatively heavy. These are not of a proper consistence at any time, for 

 broiling, but must be stewed in gravy or fricasseed. 



And now to generabze a little as to cooking these dehcate articles, of whatever species they may be. 

 When gravy is recommended to stew them in, a clear brown veal gravy, not so much flavoured as to destroy 

 the native taste of the Mushrooms, is meant. Aspic gravy, as for jelly, is a very agreeable medium if the 

 acid flavour is not disUked. When to be fricasseed, a dehcate white sauce mildly seasoned is the vehicle ; 

 in either case after washing and removing the stems, reduce the subjects to one uniform size, by cutting 

 across j put the pieces into a closely covered saucepan, with a little fresh butter, and sweat them ; (this is a 

 term in cooking for which even Mons. Ude could find no elegant substitute ; it means that the substance 

 being gradually and gently warmed, should part with its own watery juices, while imbibing the butter) ; 

 take them out, wipe, and either stew in gravy or fricassee them till tender ; this must be done at the lowest 

 possible temperature, many of the most exquisite Funguses losing their volatile flavour under the action of 

 great heat. 



' " Man pflegt diesen Scliwamm aller Orten zum Gebrauclie der Nabrung anzuwenden, und es ist nock kein 

 Beyspiel bekannt, dass je ein Mensch dm-ck ilin oder a ucli durch eine Verweckskmg mit demselben vara yergiftet 

 worden." — I. c. p. 98. 



