The French have several Agarics besides the true Mousseron which they call by that general name, with 

 the addition of some distinctive epitliet ; because they are aU dried for sale in a similar manner, and answer 

 a similar purpose in cookery. By Pseudo-Mousseron, the name applied to A. oreades by Persoon, he does 

 not mean to imply that it is false in any injuiious sense, but tliat it is employed as a substitute for the real one. 



The true Champignon then of the French is our Mushroom, Agaricus campestris. 



The true Mousseron of the French, Mousseron de printemps, is the Italian A.primulim, Agaricvs 

 Georgii ^ of Clusius and Fries. 



The Mousseron Godaille, M. de Dieppe, M. pied dur, or ' M. d'Automne of the French, is our 

 A. oreades. Of the rest of the Agarics known as "Mousserons" in commerce, the identification with 

 English species is not satisfactorily made out ; they are all sold dried, brought from various quarters, under 

 vulgar local names, and being frequently cut in pieces to facilitate desiccation, are destroyed as botanical 

 studies. The best way to preserve A. oreades, is by running a thread through each pileus where the stem 

 ha* been removed, and hanging up the necklaces so formed in the sun and mnd tiU dry ; if, however, there 

 should be neither sun nor \vind, as often happens in the showery weather when they abound, these strings 

 may be attached to the waUs or ceihng of any apartment where there is a fire ; after being thoroughly dried, 

 a tin canister is the best thing to stow them away in for use. Withering strongly recommends them in the 

 form of powder, and his opinion is corroborated by excellent modern authority. In drying they deposit 

 their spores so plentifully upon each other, that a careless observer has thrown them away as mouldy. 

 Affaricus oreades springs up after thunder-rains during the entire period when such rains prevail. Very 

 rapidly developed by warm electric showers and a heated state of the earth, they are in a manner forced to 

 a much larger size than usual, being often from two and a half to tlu-ee inches across. Under these circum- 

 stances they are of more tender consistency, beautifully pure and cream-tinted; when skilfully fried in 

 fresh butter with simple pepper and salt, (having been dipped in egg, or not, previously, as approved), no 

 Fungus suqiasses them in delicacy, agreeableness, or wholesomeness ! As an excellent condiment, giving a 

 most gratefid flavour to gi-avies and soups, it is impossible to praise our humble down-trodden, neglected, 

 Champignon too highly ; its use would save many pounds of meat in the kitchen, even of the economical, 

 and improve the dishes of those who scorn to practice a careful virtue. Few are those now : a time of distress 

 and difficulty has taught all, that wasteful consmnption is a sin, and many will be glad to know that they 

 may not only use a neglected treasure of nature with great advantage to themselves, but create a trade for 

 tlie indigent in collecting it. Some years ago our curiosity was excited by seeing men employed at West 

 Wickham in filhng sacks witji this usually despised production ; on enquiring for what purpose they were 

 intended, the answer was, for a great a-la-mode beef house, they being "the secret" of that renowned dish, 

 which private cooks could never solve ; we hope they will be thankfid for our hint. It must be remarked 

 that long cooking destroys the aroma of Agaricus oreades, a very short period being requisite to obtain its 

 flavour. Although jielding so little liquid as not to be fit for ketchup alone, when mixed mth tjie common 

 Mushroom it greatly adds to the flavour, and an excellent white ketchup for fricassees may be produced by 

 macerating it in any common white wine and water in equal proportions, with sufficient salt to make the 

 mixture keep, which must be pressed and strained after being boiled in substance, and such spice as is 

 approved put into the bottles ; but for a lover of pure flavoui's, spice wiU spoil the sauce. 



' This, the true A. Georgii, which was so called by Clusius, because it generally appears about St. George's day 

 (old style) the 23vd of April, has nothing to do with Sowerby's A. Georgii, a name erroneously attributed by him to 

 A. ari^emk, the Horse Mushroom. 



