dividual in question be cut across, and if really A. Folemiim, this brownish tint to which it turns, unlike 

 any other of the Lactarius Agarics, will decide the point. A. rufus is painfully acrid ; A. deliciosus has 

 orange milk turning green ; the milk of A. aeris turns red ; that of The'ujalus yellow ; A. uvidiis, lilac ; 

 A. subdulcis has ferruginous gills, and is acrid when old, the milk is white and unchangeable, the stem hollow. 

 No one who has once seen A. Volemum will ever confuse it with any other, and to those who have not, we 

 introduce its " counterfeit," confident that it wiU enable them to recognise the living plant if they meet 

 with it ; there is a sort of quiet dignity in its stature, solidity and simple, richness of costume ; it is 

 certainly the chief in every view of the Galorrheus, or Lactarius, the milk-yielding family of Agarics. There 

 are not many of them esculent ; only two can be recommended ; our present subject, and A. deliciosus 

 which has been given before ; these have a considerable resemblance to each other in flavour and con- 

 sistence, resembling kidnies. We copy M. Ude's recipe for a mode of cooking, in which if the funguses 

 were substituted for the flesh, we do not believe any palate would detect the difi'erence, and ours would do 

 for a fast-day bonne-bouche, if indeed such a thing be fasting ! Meagre diet indeed ! Study — and learn how 

 to cheat — somebody. 



" Sheeps' Kidnies (mycologically A. Volemum or A. deliciosus) with champagne (efonomically Perry). 



" Take six or twelve kidnies, according to the quantity that you wish to dress ; remove the skins and 

 mince them the thickness and size of a halfpenny ; fry them in an omelette pan, with a bit of butter, taking 

 care to move the pan frequently, to fry the kidnies equally ; when they are done, strew over them a little 

 salt and pepper, some parsley chopped very fine, and a very small bit of eschalot, well chopped also, pour 

 over a little flour ; stir up all with a wooden spoon, then moisten with a glass of wliite Champagne or Chabhs 

 (neither Madeira nor Sherry will do) which should be very hot, but do not let it boil, otherwise the kidnies 

 win not be eatable ; add a little lemon and a little cayenne, and observe that those dishes should be well 

 seasoned." The French Cook, by Louis Eustache Ude. 



