twisted in the stem, and contorted into monstrous shapes ; and the size varies extremely ; so that the 

 inexperienced collector may be greatly puzzled by anomalous forms, which are not truly a different species ; 

 " Some are more agreeable than others, but none are hurtful," is therefore a comfortable assurance of 

 Corda's. The mitre of the esculent Morel is never open at the top, unless accidentally cracked ; it is never 

 free from the stem at the bottom, but gathered ia and fixed closely to it. These distinctions mark it at 

 once from the Phallus tribe,' wliich have an orifice at top, and from its own congeners wliich are free from 

 the stem at the bottom. 



According to Vittadini, the Morel, in the earliest stage it is met with, is a Httle whitish tubercle, 

 emerging from an earthy base, clothed with cottony web. The head is smooth at first, showing on the surface 

 small spots and hnes corresponding to the future cells, which are then closed by the projecting portions 

 of the ribs ; the stem is early formed and remains for a time sohd, becoming afterwards hoUow or shghtly 

 stuffed. The entire case of the stem is of a double texture, curiously plaited and gathered ia at the root ; 

 the external coat ternmiates by bending outwards to connect itself with the margin of the cap ; the internal 

 one, having first doubled back upon the outer, so as to form a supporting shoulder, passes upwards and 

 makes the skeleton of tliis honey-combed cap, the cells of which are hned by the coloured hymenium, 

 between which, in age, the wliite substance of the ribs is very apparent at their angular junctions. The 

 sporidia are packed one above another in tubular asci, and fly off in jets of dust wliich falls again around 

 the plant; tliis semiual dust is white or yellowish. The stem and cap form one continuous cavity without 

 division of any kind, which is generally granulated ia texture, and unequal in surface from the depression 

 of the deeper cells into it. 



Differences of soU, chmate, age, and colour, cause the Morchella esculenta to appear under so many 

 different aspects, that it is not surprising a number of species have been described, although strict 

 investigation wiU reduce them to mere varieties ; of these varieties the two selected are, a small specimen of 

 M. escvlenta very near M. rotunda of Persoon, and M. esculenta, vax-fulva, of Fries. These were found at 

 no great distance from each other, the latter under the shade of shrubs and Scotch Firs, soHtary ; there was 

 no grass nor weed near, the earth had not been moved for some years, and was covered vrith minute green 

 Algae and dead leaves of the Kr. It was extremely persistent, reviving on the apphcation of water after 

 partial drying, had neither flavour nor scent raw, but was excellent when cooked. It wiU be seen that the 

 description of Krombholz exactly applies : — 



" The hat is oval, fox-brown or brov^l-yellow, the ribs are roundish, but at their places of conjunction, 

 flat and chaimellcd. The cells are large, irregular, rather long, seldom lozenge-formed, deeply hollowed 

 out, folded and full of veins ; the whole hat looks swollen, and its base is from two to tlnee times as broad 

 as the stem, so that the hymenium bends iawards underneath in order to reach the enlarging stem. Tlie 

 stem is two or three inches high, rather liigher than the hat, widest below, narrowed near the top, above 

 wliicli narrow place it becomes larger, extending itself in a horizontal direction to meet the edge of the hat ; 

 it is smooth, white, and tender. The hollow of the hat is large, wide, smooth, except m some unevemiesses 

 caused by those cells which He deepest ; it joias the cavity of the stem without iaterruption. The substance, 

 both of the hat and stem, is white, tender, from one to two lines thick, becoming considerably thickened at 

 the base." 



Morels should be gathered in dry weather, after rain or dew they have not so much flavour. Reject 

 the stems, cut them in equal-sized pieces, well wash and stew them with a glass of hock, as directed for 

 the Cantharellus. Or they may be stuffed, with bread crumbs, meat, cliicken, shell-fish, &c., finely minced 

 and seasoned, then wrapped in shoes of bacon and roasted, servmg them in Italian sauce, or any piquant 

 brown gravy with a Httle Hght wine in it, and buttered toast may be placed beneath them. 



' It would have scarcely been needful to have mentioned this, as no one, it is to be supposed, could contem- 

 plate eating a Phallus imjmdicus ; but a friend, who had been much in Italy, gravely asserting that he had seen 

 great quantities of it purchased in the markets of Sicily, proved the olfactories are not always to be relied on, — he 

 mistook the offender for a free -bordered Morel. 



