454 BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES FISH COMMISSION. 



various Dusts representing the several provinces of the empire. The central group 

 includes eight busts and eight fruit groups which embellish the dish, all the shellwork 

 being placed on a background of lapis-lazuli. This was designed by Professors 

 Storck, Karger, and Schwartz, and executed by Dorflinger & Brothers, Frankfort- 

 on-the-Main. 



Another design by Prof. Storck is a frame of Louis xvi style, inlaid entirely in 

 gray, white, and black mother-of-pearl, and pink and yellow conch, 13 by 8 inches in 

 size, executed by Rudolph Furtener, of Vienna. In the same exhibit were a col- 

 larette of four rows of mother-of-pearl beads with drops, set in silver and gold enamel; 

 also a necklace and brooch, both designed by Prof. Storck. A collarette of five 

 strands of sea pearls that alternate with panels of silver gilt was designed by Prof. 

 Storck and executed by Bachner & Son, of Vienna. A casket 12 by 15 by 10 inches 

 of ebony, mahogany, and olivewood, decorated with mother-of-pearl, was designed 

 and made by Anton Michel of Vienna. 



MISCELLANEOUS USES OF SHELL MATERIAL. 



Great quantities of mother-of-pearl cat's-eyes were sold, mounted in silver or some 

 other metal, and many people believed them to be true oriental cat's-eyes. These are 

 generally made out of dark mother-of-pearl shells, abalone, or some other dark-colored 

 species. By cutting across a thick layer of such shell and polishing the piece into a 

 hemisphere the light condenses upon the dome into a band, giving a cat's-eye effect. 

 A number of green Trochus shells were made into napkin rings by cutting oblique 

 sections across the large diameter of the shell, leaving the apex or spire of the shell 

 as well as the main whorl to receive the napkin. 



With reference to the imitation cat's-eyes and the cutting of beads, etc., as also 

 other peculiar uses, the following notes may have interest here. They are taken from 

 a consular report on these pearl industries made by Mr. Edward Bedloe, U. S. consul 

 at Amoy. 



In the cutting of beads, buttons, studs, and other small articles from shells of a 

 high luster, there are some fifty species utilized, of which the Chinese mussel and 

 oyster are the most prominent. One variety gives a black, blue, or white button, 

 similar to the cat's-eyes of Ceylon, and named after these, Amoy or Canton cat's-eyes. 

 A second variety is of a pale fawn ranging to translucency, called white cat's eyes. 

 A third is half an inch in diameter and resembles light-brown onyx. The black and 

 white cat's-eyes are used for bracelets, necklaces, ladies' dress buttons, and also as 

 dress ornaments similar to pearls. The balls are strung and used as necklaces, brace- 

 lets, earrings, and rosaries. Though apparently fragile, they are really tough and 

 very durable. Their price depends upon some inscrutable Chinese rule, and varies 

 from half a cent to 5 cents apiece. When mounted as buttons the black cat's eyes 

 are a pleasing ornament when worn on a blank-silk dress. The gradations of color 

 are brought out into tine relief, and the suggestion of blue, which runs through the 

 shell, gives a color to the somber silk, which is very pleasing. The best effect is 

 when they are sewed closely together in a double line upon a vest or waist, when they 

 seem to be a fine and brilliant stripe. A curious way of setting both cat's-eyes and 

 onyx balls, practiced by the Chinese, consists in alternating them with small carved 



