32 THE OCEAN. 



is somewhat variable and irregular, alwavs fainter 

 than the sea-breeze, and dependent on the proximity 

 of mountains. The application of what has been 

 already said of the causes of wind in general will 

 readily be made to these particular cases, the air 

 on the surface of the water being cooler during the 

 day, and that on the mountains during the night. 

 Either is a grateful alleviation, of the oppressive 

 sultriness of the climate. 



But for the winds, the surface of the sea would 

 ever present, notwithstanding its intestine motions, 

 an unbroken and glassy smoothness. The playful 

 ripple which breaks the moon's ray into a thousand 

 sparkling diamonds, and the huge billows that rear 

 their curling and cresting summits to the sky, would 

 be alike unknown. If the direction of the breeze 

 were exactly horizontal, it is difficult to imagine 

 how the surface could be ruffled at all; but doubt- 

 less the wind exerts an irregular pressure obliquely 

 upon the water, a few particles of which are thus 

 forced out of their level above the surrounding ones : 

 these afford a surface, however slight, on which the 

 air can act directly, and the effect now goes on in- 

 creasing every moment, until, if the wind be of suf- 

 ficient velocity, the mightiest waves are produced.* 



* The perpendicular elevation of even the highest waves is, however, 

 much overrated. Viewed from the deck of a vessel, the immense undu- 

 lating surface causes them to appear much higher than they are; while 

 the ever-changing inclination of the vessel itself produces a deception 

 of the senses, which increases the exaggeration. Experienced practical 

 men have, however, made some observations, which show us their height. 

 Taking their station in the shrouds, they have proceeded higher and 

 higher, until the summit of the loftiest billow no longer intercepted the 



