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collecting in the East, althongh one of the most fascinating occnpations of a 

 naturalist, is not always like wandering on paths strewn with roses : — 



" I send three tins of butterflies and five of birds from Palos Bay. They are 

 partly taken south or south-west of the bay, at l^omjohi, and i)artly north of the 

 entrance of the bay, at Tawaya, all being from low country up to :2500 feet, my 

 desperate attempts to reach high country on Mount Loli, and again on Mount 

 Tumba (or Tuba), just failing by a hair's breadth. We had a very bad time. My 

 idea was to reach the neck of the isthmus between Tawacli and Parigi, where, at a 

 height of 3000 feet or more, I might have made interesting collectidns. Usually, 

 I think, there would have been no great difficulty in attempting this ; but just as I 

 came to the port of Dongala war broke out. The Tawadli people burnt Kayn 

 Malnwa; the fugitives fled partly to Tawaya (north), partly to I'alu (Palos) (south). 

 The people of Dongala guarded their houses night and day with guus in their 

 hands, and no praus for love or money would venture to go out. I went over to 

 Tawali, on the south coast of the bay, and got some butterflies, including a curious 

 form of Cethosia myrina (at 2500 feet), and tried to reach Mount Loli, about 

 8000 feet high, but the Raja interfered. The western side of the mountain, all 

 forest, belongs to the Sultan of Palos, and it is impossible to go there without going 

 •to Palos for permission, which was impossible during the war. Tlie eastern side 

 close to Palos belongs to the Sultan of Benawa, the greatest of all these chiefs, and 

 my very good friend. Unfortunately, however, this side is absolutely bare up to 

 5000 or 0000 feet — a remarkable thing for a place so near the equator— and quite 

 uninhabited. The Sultan of Benawa advised me to try Tawaya, which he said 

 belonged to him. As a matter of fact the Tawayans had some years ago kidnapped 

 his son and held him as a hostage, doing just what they liked. The dear little boy 

 afterwards often came to see me at Tawaya, with a large armed guard. Finally 

 I got, at great exjieuse, a prau to take me to Tawaya. The passage was fearful. 

 We were nearly swamped, lost an outrigger, and thought we were lost, when 

 suddenly, by amazing luck, the wind changed and the sea went down, enabling us 

 to reach the shore. The men, who were in fear of pirates all the way over, put my 

 things ashore a long way from the village, and fled for their lives. I left my men, 

 all armed, in charge of the things, and went only with my butterfly-net to Tawaya. 

 On arriving at the place I was mobbed at once, the ])oople, who sjieak only Kaili, 

 not Malay, supposing that their town was to be attacked, and they tried to kill me, 

 one young man from Kayu Maluwa actually wounding me in the breast, though but 

 slightly, because the old men caught hold of his arms. By great good fortune an 

 old Buginesc, Haji Abdul Fatha, who has been three times to Mecca, but was 

 nevertheless a good man, came just in time, and after 1 had given him the signet- 

 ring of his son Nazir at Dongala, whom I knew well, but who liad been afraid to 

 accompany us, he explained everything, and our tronbles were over for this time. 

 The Tawaya people, however, remained sullen anil hostile for some ilays. The 

 neiglibouring vDlages were deserted, the people having taken to the woods ; and 

 though the Ilaja's sons often came to see me, he himself never came near his 

 capital during my stay. What he was afraid of I cannot say. I^ soon got on 

 friendly terms with the Alfnro (Toraja they say in ( 'elebes), or heathen people of 

 Tumba ; and as Tawaya was utterly j)arclu'd up and dry, I did my best to go to 

 Tumba, and twice got coolies, and twice they ran away. The third time they came 

 and were ready to take us to Tumba (fully 4000 feet high, I think, on a mountain 

 which is about TOOO), but that day there were three of us down with fever, and a 



