( 495 ) 



Turks from Enboea, earthquakes. Rhodes, Cilicia. Trip to Adana, where I 

 admired the brilliant costumes. Tarsus. Along the coast to Jaffa, whence walk 

 to Jerusalem with Mohammedan pilgrims from Fez and Khokaud (' Kudz.') 

 Demonitization of the beshlile. American colony. Day of Judgment at Jerusalem. 

 "Visit to Egypt, Suez Canal, Isniailia, Cairo, Zagozig, El Fayum. By camel 

 to Benisnef, then to Alexandria and Jaffa. Meet Cajjfain Sir Richard F. Burton, 

 the famous orientalist. Bny a horse at Bethlehem, a most unsophisticated horse, 

 that had never seen a lake, or ice, or snow. Visit the Greek monasteries in 

 Palestine, ride to Samaria, Nazareth, Sea of Galilee, Mt. Carmel, Tyre, Sidon, 

 Beyrut, Damascus, and across the desert to Hoores and Hamath. Water-wheels. 

 Anezi Bedawin. Splendid early Christian remains between Hamath and Antioch. 

 Church of St. Simeon Stylites. Attacked by robbers near Sermada ; escape after 

 wounding one. Aleppo. American Mission at Ain Tab. Cross the Eni)hrates near 

 the Hittite capital Carchemish. Over tlie lilack ])lains of Mesopotamia to Nafa and 

 Diarbekir. Great famine, devoted Jesuit missionaries, roving Kurds and Shamar 

 Bedawin. Valley of Kharput civilised by the American missionaries. Dangerous 

 ride over the Bin-Gul-Dagh to Erzeroum. (Underground Armenian villages, 

 Garden of Eden, ravages of Kurds.)" 



1881. 



" From Erzeroum to the Russian frontier, where I am arrested and escorted by 

 Cossacks through the snow to Kars (singing, tea-souj)). Grand situation of Kars, 

 Russian officers, liuins of Ani. Etchmiadzin, Alexandropol, Erivan, Nakitschewan. 

 Mt. Ararat ! Nearly killed by frontier guards, narrow escape. Kind Mohammedan 

 host. Georgians. Enter Persia — sturdy beggars on the road. Famine at Tabriz. 

 Dangerous ride to Ardabil, fanatical city. Down the Astara river to Persian Talish ; 

 meet a French traveller. Along the shore of the Caspian to Resht. Over 

 Demawend to Mazanderan — the rich Caspian plain. Strange life in Astrabad and 

 in the Turkman country — cats — Nadir Khan. Chased by Turkmans over the Attrek, 

 handed over to the Russians by the Jafarbai, and kept prisoner at Chikisbhar. 

 Released by Shenkiuoif, and sent to Gaz. Dance lasting twent3--four hours at 

 Aslaniantz's house. Fever at Astrabad. Lost in the Elburz until I come across 

 pilgrims, with whom I reach the salt desert. Ride from Khorasan to Teheran. 

 Social life among the English there. 



" Ride across Persia. Golden dome of the tomb of Zobeide at Kam — stories 

 of cowardice of Kashan people. Ispahan, dinner with Zil-i-Sultan. Armenian town 

 of Julfa. Telegraph line to Shiraz. Black cheese. Reach the Persian Gulf. 

 Telegraph clerks and the British adjective. Stay at Cape Jask at Belnchistan ; 

 annexation of the Cape. Reacli Muscat." 



1882. 



, " Muscat. Annexation of an island ; hospitality on board a British man-of- 

 war. Ride to the Jeliel el Akhdar, cut off by rebels, escape by moonlight. Meet 

 Dr. Jayakar. Reach Karachi in India. The Indus ! Over the ' Pat ' (Hell) to 

 Sibi in Belnchistan. The Bolan Pass. Multan — graves, dust, beggars, Pir Shnmsh. 

 (ireat English camp at Rawal Pindi. Mari. First journey in the Himalayas, from 

 the border of Kashmir to Abbatabad and the Black Mountains. Made fur the first 



