204 ON THE PEEPARATION OF FUNGI FOR THE TABLE. 



"Where the stems of mushrooms are of the same substance 

 as the caps, or where they are of a light and fleshy texture, only 

 the butt end need be pared away. But when at all tough, or 

 different in substance to the cap, then the whole stem must be re- 

 jected. In many cases it is well to scoop out the gills of Agarics 

 and to reject them. The tubes of Bolets must always be cleanly 

 removed with a spoon, as they spoil the flavour, except in very 

 young specimens. As a rule, it is better not to peel the cap, this 

 especially with regard to Pratelles. But where the peel is tough 

 or thick, then it is obvious it should be taken off. It will depend 

 on the mode of dressing whether the mushroom is sliced, minced, 

 or cooked whole ; but when there are big and small together, 

 the larger should be cut into pieces the size of the smallest. The 

 time required for cooking will be long or short, depending not 

 only on the kind of mushroom, but also on the particular receipt 

 employed. The ordinary rules as to this will be specified, but 

 much must be left to the cook's own judgment. 



Since we have, in most large towns, Schools of Cookery edu- 

 cating the kitchen mind, amateur and professional, the assertion 

 ought to be comprehended that there are as many ways of cooking 

 mushrooms as of dressing eggs or potatoes — that is to say, legion! 

 The one hundred and more receipts given here may be made the 

 basis for many others. It should be well understood that, although 

 many species may be cooked in a similar fashion, others again 

 require a wholly different treatment. One cannot cook the Chan- 

 tarelle like the Pratelle, for example. Again, there are special 

 dishes which can only be properly prepared from some one parti- 

 cular species. Distinction must never be forgotten if we wish to 

 really know mushrooms in their best aspects. People have often 

 made trial of esculents new to them, and have been disappointed 

 simply because they did not practise proper culinary method. 



Nicety in cooking does not invariably imply expense. Most of 

 the annexed receipts should be within the means of the humblest 

 cottage. A few, more luxurious, are suited for well-to-do people, 

 who will find that the daintier sorts of mushrooms'are well worthy 

 of the most elaborate ctmine. It may be added, too, that the two 

 or three ways in which common Pratelles are usually cooked in 

 England are simply barbarous. They are apparently designed to 

 rob the mushrooms of all flavour, and render them as indigestible 

 as possible. It is not expensive materials that are wanted, but 

 only a little care, and the employment of suitable methods. 



