ON THE PREPARATION OF FUNGI FOR THE TABLE. 203 



rooms possess the same qualities wlierever they grow, as is the 

 case with other plants. The reason why poisonous kinds can be 

 eaten with impunity is simply because they are submitted to some 

 simple process which destroys or removes the noxious essence, 

 leaving the nutritious tissues perfectly harmless and good to eat. 

 This is undoubtedly a very valuable discovery, since it increases 

 the supply of available food. It has been elsewhere discussed in 

 connection with the chemistry and toxicology of Fungi. But even 

 the application of such processes will not allow Discrimination to 

 be altogether set aside. The methods employed to render one set of 

 poisonous species innocuous prove abortive when applied to another 

 series of noxious individuals. Boiling is sufficient in one case, 

 but not so in another. Salt is required for one, vinegar for a 

 second, desiccation for a third. Even in this respect we see how 

 entirely wrong it is to regard Fungi from a general point of view. 

 The only sui*e system is to appreciate each several species as some- 

 thing quite apart from its congeners. 



Having selected our Mushrooms, of one kind or another, and 

 in accordance with the advice already given, the first thing to be 

 done is obviously to remove all adherent dirt, with the fingers and 

 a brush. If they be in a fair and clean condition it may not be 

 necessary to wash them, though it is better always to do so. 

 Fragile and watery sorts, like Inkcaps, are best not washed, if 

 they can be gathered clean enough. Washing consists in merely 

 rinsing the Mushrooms in cold water, and then lightly pressing 

 each one dry in a soft cloth. 



Modes of preparation will now differ, according to the kind of 

 mushroom and to the way it is to be dressed. In the succeed- 

 ing chapter of recipes will be found directions in each case, both 

 for preliminary preparation and dressing. In the majority of cases 

 mushrooms should be scalded. When they are taken out of the 

 cold water in which they have been rinsed, they are at once to be 

 plunged into boUing water, but not left in it more than two or 

 three seconds, then to be immediately dried with a soft cloth. A 

 few need a second rinsing in cold water, after having been scalded. 

 These processes are for the purpose of ensui-ing a thorough cleans- 

 ing of the mushrooms, and the removal of any exti-aneous flavour. 

 Scalding has a curious result, in making the cooking which is to 

 follow more effective. It is essential for some kinds, but is 

 better dispensed with for others, as will be indicated in the proper 

 places. 



