﻿OF 
  BRITISH 
  FUNGI. 
  73 
  

  

  is 
  reticulated, 
  especially 
  towards 
  the 
  summit, 
  with 
  a 
  

   delicate 
  pinkish 
  network 
  of 
  fine 
  lines 
  (PL 
  15). 
  It 
  is 
  

   frequent 
  in 
  woods, 
  especially 
  in 
  the 
  South 
  of 
  England, 
  

   and 
  is 
  well 
  diffused 
  and 
  appreciated 
  on 
  the 
  continent 
  of 
  

   Europe. 
  Frequently 
  it 
  will 
  attain 
  a 
  large 
  size, 
  so 
  that 
  

   two 
  or 
  three 
  of 
  them 
  are 
  sufficient 
  to 
  furnish 
  a 
  family 
  

   with 
  a 
  meal. 
  The 
  hest 
  feature 
  by 
  which 
  to 
  distinguish 
  

   this 
  species 
  from 
  its 
  congeners, 
  is 
  the 
  reticulation 
  of 
  the 
  

   stem. 
  It 
  would 
  be 
  well 
  to 
  notice 
  if 
  the 
  flesh 
  changes 
  

   colour 
  when 
  bruised 
  or 
  cut, 
  for 
  the 
  juice 
  of 
  the 
  most 
  

   unwholesome 
  species 
  of 
  this 
  genus 
  speedily 
  turns 
  blue 
  

   on 
  exposure 
  to 
  the 
  air. 
  Dr. 
  Badham 
  says 
  that 
  " 
  the 
  

   best 
  manner 
  of 
  cooking 
  this 
  fungus 
  must 
  be 
  left 
  to 
  be 
  

   decided 
  by 
  the 
  taste 
  of 
  the 
  gourmand 
  ; 
  in 
  every 
  way 
  

   it 
  is 
  good. 
  Its 
  tender 
  and 
  juicy 
  flesh, 
  its 
  delicate 
  and 
  

   sapid 
  flavour, 
  render 
  it 
  equally 
  acceptable 
  to 
  the 
  plain 
  

   and 
  to 
  the 
  accomplished 
  cook. 
  It 
  imparts 
  a 
  relish 
  

   alike 
  to 
  the 
  homely 
  hash 
  and 
  the 
  dainty 
  ragout, 
  and 
  

   may 
  be 
  truly 
  said 
  to 
  improve 
  every 
  dish 
  of 
  which 
  it 
  is 
  

   a 
  constituent." 
  Mr. 
  Berkeley 
  takes 
  exception 
  to 
  its 
  

   excellence, 
  and 
  gives 
  as 
  a 
  result 
  of 
  his 
  experience 
  

   that 
  it 
  is 
  very 
  moderate 
  eating. 
  Our 
  own 
  knowledge, 
  

   and 
  that 
  of 
  gentlemen 
  of 
  our 
  acquaintance 
  who 
  are 
  

   much 
  greater 
  amateurs 
  of 
  fungi, 
  hold 
  rather 
  to 
  the 
  

   opinion 
  of 
  Dr. 
  Badham 
  ; 
  but 
  tastes 
  are 
  universally 
  

   allowed 
  to 
  vary. 
  The 
  ancient 
  Romans 
  are 
  believed 
  to 
  

   Lave 
  employed 
  this 
  species 
  of 
  Boletus, 
  and, 
  apart 
  from 
  

   their 
  predilection 
  for 
  snails, 
  cossi, 
  and 
  other 
  delicacies 
  

   which 
  we 
  do 
  not 
  nowadays 
  admire, 
  were, 
  on 
  the 
  whole, 
  

   not 
  bad 
  judges 
  of 
  dainties. 
  

  

  