96 MARKETS. [1839. 



of stock arc raised on the extensive grazing "rounds near the 

 city, and there is scarcely a family in the town but has one 

 or more horses. These animals are generally well broken, 

 and are more docile than those of Buenos Ayres. The aver- 

 age price of a horse is twelve dollars, but when thorough!} 

 trained they command as high prices as in the United 

 States. • Beef and mutton, of the finest quality, are both 

 cheap and abundant. 



The inhabitants of Santiago are remarkably obliging and 

 courteous ; somewhat too fond of their chief national amuse- 

 ments, dancing and music, and, to a certain extent, addicted 

 to their fashionable game of monte, yet, withal, orderly and 

 well-disposed. They are sincerely attached to the devotional 

 forms and ceremonies of their religion. No obtrusive exhi- 

 bition of this feeling is made, but the stranger cannot well 

 avoid noticing it ; even though it may be common in most 

 of the cities and towns of South America. It is particularly 

 remarkable, when the bells of the cathedral announce the 

 arrival of the hour for the oration, or sunset prayer. The 

 streets are then filled with the gay and lively population, and 

 all is mirthful and joyous. But as the first peal echoes from 

 the cathedral tower, everything is hushed and still, as if some 

 mighty spell had been thrown over the city ; the caballero 

 reins back his steed on his haunches ; the laughing senorita 

 hesitates in the midst of her witty repartee ; the artisan suffers 

 his hammer to fall silently on his bench ; even the gamester 

 pauses in his throw of the dice ; and in the pauses of the 

 chimes, the cool plash of the water falling over the marble 

 statutes in the fountain, may be heard many a yard from the 

 plaza. 



As in Valparaiso, the gentlemen in Santiago follow the 

 European fashions; but the ladies, notwithstanding the 

 French milliners and mantuamakers who have immigrated 

 to Chili, adhere more closely to the customs of olden time, — 

 and a bonnet, thanks to the soft atmosphere and beautiful 

 climate which allows them to dispense with this incumbrance, 



