J.839.] POPULATION. 85 



inhabitants are, consequently, almost exclusively of a mer- 

 cantile character. They are hospitable and kind to strangers, 

 not more from interest than from impulse. With the influx 

 of so many foreigners, new customs have been introduced, 

 and those of the ancient Spanish residents are gradually dis- 

 appearing. Their costumes likewise are being supplanted 

 by French styles and fashions. That these changes have 

 taken place without serious disagreement or difficulty, is 

 probably owing to the intermarriage of the foreigners with 

 Spanish ladies. Now and then a genuine Castilian — one of 

 the old noblesse — may be found, who looks with mingled 

 emotions of contempt and abhorrence on these innovations ; 

 but the great majority have long since learned to regard them, 

 if not with love, at least without hatred. Until quite re- 

 cently, it was not customary for the ladies of Valparaiso to 

 wear either hats or head-dresses, even in the streets, — their 

 dark glossy ringlets being gathered into two plaits, and suf- 

 fered to hang down the back, sometimes nearly reaching the 

 ground, — but latterly bonnets have been introduced, and they 

 are becoming quite the fashion. 



In point of morals, Valparaiso does, not compare favorably 

 with many other South American towns. The higher classes 

 are excessively fond of amusements, and those beneath them 

 in position imitate their example, though manifesting less 

 regard for the decencies of life, and substituting coarser en- 

 joyments for those of a more refined character. A great part 

 of the houses in the southern quarter of the city, are grog- 

 shops, brothels, and kindred places of resort ; at every step 

 you discover the wrinkles of cankering care and passion dis- 

 figuring the countenance of the chevalier d? Industrie, who 

 strives, in vain, to conceal his repulsive features under his 

 broad sombrero, — or start at the dark flashing eyes of the 

 courtesan, who gathers her gay crimson or green bayeta* 

 more closely about her half-exposed person, not from any 

 instinct of modesty, but rather to hide the dirty calico dress 

 beneath it. 



* The baycta is a coarse baize shawl worn by women of the lower classes. 



