368 ORNAMENTS. [LS40. 



conceal their nether limbs in a pair of pantaloons, if fortunate 

 enough to possess them ; and provided the state of their ward- 

 robes permits the indulgence, a coarse cotton shirt is added. 

 On a week day, a native may often be seen clad simply in a 

 shirt, or sailor's round jacket, with the indispensable maro. 

 Parens are likewise occasionally worn by both sexes. Since 

 the missionaries have established themselves on the islands, 

 they have persuaded the females, at least when they appear 

 in public, to put on long gowns, like the loose morning dresses 

 of our own American ladies. These are confined at the waist, 

 if at all, by embroidered, or party-colored tapa scarfs or 

 shawls. 



Articles of apparel made of tapa, are, however, much less 

 common now than they formerly were. Mantles, called 

 kapas or kiheis, are still made of this material ; and there 

 are girdles, or malos, also, of the same fabric. The mantle 

 is passed over the right shoulder of the wearer, and knotted 

 under the opposite arm. Besides the tapa shawls, bright 

 yellow or scarlet ones, of foreign manufacture, are frequently 

 displayed. 



The king, Kamameha III, usually wears the European 

 dress, — consisting of a blue broadcloth coat, and white vest 

 and pantaloons ; but for great occasions he has robes of state, 

 made of tapa, and adorned with rich yellow or scarlet feath- 

 ers — the latter obtained from the beautiful melithreptes Pa- 

 cifica. His royal spouse ordinarily appears in public with 

 an embroidered shawl of scarlet crape thrown over her silk 

 or satin dress ; and when still greater state is desired, she, 

 too, displays a gorgeous robe, showily, if not tastefully trimmed 

 with feathers. Costly tiaras of yellow or scarlet feathers ar s e, 

 likewise, indicative of high rank. The chiefs wear helmets 

 made of linen network, with brilliant feathers inserted, and 

 the chiefesses, as they are called, pretty wreaths, either of 

 feathers or flowers, or, sometimes, of both intermingled. 



Ornaments are not very common. Amulets of lones or 

 ivory shaped like a hook, or carved after some other pattern, 

 or beautiful shells, are often seen. Necklaces of braided 



