1839.] STYLE OF DRESS. 131 



classes throughout the country, with an occasional imitation 

 of Indian costume ; but latterly, according to Lieutenant 

 Revere, " English tailors have transmogrified the men, an 1 

 French milliners have played the deuce with the women."* 

 The cholo still adheres to his poncho, and his embroidere 1 

 jerkin, or zamdrra; the Indian woman does not lay aside 

 her gay-colored bay eta ; the mestizo continues to display his 

 vest and breeches of shining velvet, decked with bright fili- 

 gree buttons ; but the prevailing fashions, among the upper 

 classes, are French and English, and these are fast extend- 

 ing to every rank and condition. 



At Lima and Truxillo, a singular dress, peculiar to those 

 two cities, is worn by the ladies, at church, in religious pro- 

 cessions, in their promenades, and sometimes during a morn- 

 ing call ; but it is never seen in a ball room or theatre. This 

 dress consists of the Sdya y Mdnto, — literally, a petticoat 

 and veil. There are two kinds of sdyas — the sdya ajustdda, 

 and the sdya culepa, or .sdya desplegdda. The former is a 

 skirt, or petticoat, of thick silk, either of a brown or some 

 other dark color, which is plaited at the top and bottom, in 

 small fluted folds, drawn close together at the waist, but 

 widening as they descend. It fits tightly to the form, and 

 nothing could be better devised to display the symmetry of 

 the wearer's limbs, unless it were complete male attire. It, 

 of course, prevents any rapid movement in walking, though 

 it does not reach quite as low as the ankle, — the inventor, 

 probably, not caring entirely to hide the tasteful chaussure. 

 This garment, however, is rapidly going out of date, — few 

 really modest females making use of it, — and the sdya desple- 

 gdda is taking its place. The latter is plaited close at the 

 waist, but from thence downwards, it presents the appear- 

 ance of a hooped petticoat. 



The mdnto is a veil of thick black silk, fastened at the 

 back of the waist, where it joins the sdya, by a narrow band. 

 It is thence brought over the shoulders and head, and drawn 

 over the face, so as to leave a small triangular space, in 



* Tour of Duty in California, p. 11. 



