HocKEN. — The Fiji Fire Ceremony. G69 



towards Mbenga iu the s.s. " Hauroto." Mr. Vaughau, an 

 eminent inhabitant of Suva, who has charge of the Meteoro- 

 logical Department there, was of our party, and carried the 

 thermometer. This was the most suitable for our purpose 

 procurable ; it was in a strong japanned-tin casing, and 

 registered 400° Fahr. We had also three amateur photo- 

 graphers. 



Owing to the numerous coral-reefs and shallows, we finally- 

 transhipped into the " Maori," a steamer of much less draught. 

 Approaching the silent verdure-clad islet, with its narrow 

 beach of white-coral sand, we saw a thin blue haze of smoke 

 curling above the lofty cocoanut-trees at a little distance 

 in the interior, which sufficiently locahsed the mysterious 

 spot. We now took the ship's boat, and soon, steppmg 

 ashore, made our way through a narrow pathway in the 

 dense bush until we came to an open space cleared from the 

 forest, in the midst of which was the great lovo, or oven. 



A remarkable and never-to-be-forgotten scene now pre- 

 sented itself. There were hundreds of Fijians, dressed ac- 

 cording to the rules of nature and their own art — that is, 

 they were lightly garlanded here and there with their fan- 

 tastic lihulikus of grass, ornamented with brilliant scarlet 

 and yellow hibiscus-flowers and streamers of the delicate 

 ribbonwood. These hung in airy profusion from their necks 

 and around their waists, showing off to advantage their lovely 

 brown glossy skins. In addition, many wore clean white- 

 cotton siclus, or pendant loin-cloths. All were excited, mov- 

 ing hither and thither m wild confusion, and making the 

 forest ring again with their noisy hilarity. Some climbed the 

 lofty cocoa-palms, hand over hand, foot over foot, with all 

 the dexterity of monkeys. The top reached, and shrouded 

 amongst the feathery leaves, they poured down a shower of 

 nuts for the refreshment of their guests. 



The celerity with which they opened the nuts was some- 

 thing astonishing, and afforded an example, too, as to the mode 

 of using stone implements. A stout, strong stick, 3 ft. long, 

 and sharpened at both ends, was driven into the ground, and 

 a few smart strokes upon it soon tore from the nut its outer 

 thick covering. The upper part of the shell was then broken 

 off by means of a long sharp-edged stone as cleanly and regu- 

 larly as the lid of an egg is removed with a knife, and then 

 was disclosed a pint of delicious milk, a most welcome bever- 

 age on that overpoweringly hot day. 



The great oven lay before us, pouring forth its torrents of 

 heat from huge embers which were still burning fiercely on 

 the underlying stones. These were indeed melting moments 

 for the spectators. The pitiless noontide sun, and the no less 

 pitiless oven-heat, both pent up in the deep well-like forest 



