Best. — Clothing of the Ancient Maori. 646 



by means of cloak-pins, termed " autui." These autui were 

 slender curved pins, about 4 in. in length, very neatly made 

 of whalebone, and in later times from boars' tusks. A man 

 would often have a bunch of these autui suspended to his 

 cloak in front, as an ornament. The attreiweve small, oblong, 

 flat pieces of whalebone, similar to the hakara fastened to a 

 dog's neck when hunting the kiioi. Four or six of these aurei 

 were fastened to a chief's cloak in front, so as to make a 

 rattling sound as he moved. 



Ochre : No Maori chief or exquisite could be happy unless 

 his dressing-case were well supplied with red ochre, red being 

 the colour most esteemed by the Maori. This ochre (horu, 

 or kokoxcai) was applied to both the body and the clothing in 

 days of yore. It was mixed with shark-oil, or the oil ex- 

 pressed from the berries of the titoki, and thus used as a paint. 

 Lateral bands of this pigment painted across the forehead were 

 considered a great ornament, and were known as " tuhi korae," 

 or " tuhi marae kura." Bands or stripes of the same crossing 

 the face diagonally from the corner of the forehead down over 

 the eye to the cheek were termed " tuhi kohuru." Ochre was 

 either collected from certain springs or by burning certain 

 earth. Famous springs of this kind generally had distinctive 

 names, such as " Nga Toto-o-Tawera," near Ohaua. 



3Iaro. 



Shoulder-cloaks, large and small, were the principal cloth- 

 ing of the Maori. Garments wherewith to cover the lower 

 limbs were a secondary consideration. The rapaki, or kilt, 

 was usually a small 7nai, or a pinjyiic, as we have seen. Be- 

 sides these, there were different kinds of maro used by both 

 males and females. The maro may be described as an apron, 

 being much smaller than a rapaki (kilt). Neither did the 

 maro extend round the body, but was either drawn between 

 the legs {ka htirua te maro), and fastened behind to the belt, 

 or else two maro were worn, one in front and one behind {tau- 

 mua and tau-miiri). 



Maro-kopua : This was a triangular apron or girdle worn 

 by girls of good family. It was woven of fine dressed flax- 

 fibre, and was adorned with taniko and hukahuka (thrums). 

 The desired shape in this maro was obtained by means of the 

 tihoi process. 



Maro-ivaiapu : This was also a woven maro ornamented 

 with thrums. It was square in shape, and was worn by 

 chiefs only ; never by the ordinary people. It will be re- 

 membered that this was one of the garments woven by Hine- 

 rau-a-moa, the inventor of weaving. H. T. Pio gave the 

 genealogy of Hine-rau-a-moa as follows : — 



