Best. — Clothing of the Ancient Maori. 639 



* Kia titiro iho ana e ivhai ana te ngauraparapa, ehara te wahine 

 kokoti rare i te kakahu.' Mo te tvahine pakihore, rorirori." 



Taurekereke : A term applied to the margin or edges {tdpa) 

 of cloaks. 



Men sometimes entered the whare pora as students, and 

 passed through the same ceremonies as women. They gene- 

 rally turned their attention to the ^vhakairo—th.a,t is, the 

 weaving of ornamental borders in various colours ; also to 

 learning to sketch and colour tJie patterns painted on the 

 rafters of important houses. 



Fine cloaks of dressed flax-fibre, such as the korowai, aronui, 

 paepaeroa, hihi-ma, &c., and the finer ??iaro, are termed kakahu, 

 but the rough cloaks, formed of inferior material, and often 

 covered with short pieces (Jvukahuka) of unscraped flax {hara- 

 keke), newer received that name. Still they had distinctive 

 names, as follows : All rough coarse flax cloaks are known by 

 the generic name of " mai," though they include diliferent 

 kinds, such as the timu or whakatiyu, the pora, the manaeka, 

 the tatara, &c. 



The rough serviceable cloaks formed from the fibre of the 

 kiekie are known as pake, while those made of the fibre of the 

 toi, or mountain palm, are styled " tot." A list of the 

 different cloaks, kilts, &c., as manufactured in Tuhoe Land is 

 as follows : — 



Eakahic. 



Aromii : This fine cloak, now no longer seen, was made 

 •from carefully prepared fibre of the best variety of flax. The 

 body of the garment was left the white colour of the bleached 

 fibre, and was without thrums (hukahuka). It was a much- 

 prized garment, and worn by leading chiefs alone. It had a 

 wide taniko, or border, woven in tasteful patterns of black, 

 white, and red fibre at the bottom, and a similar border, but 

 narrower, at the two sides. 



Paepaeroa : This large cloak ranked equal with the aromii. 

 It was made of the same material, but had a wide taniko at 

 both sides and end. It had no thrums. In weaving the 

 2)aep)aeroa, the taniko, or ornamental border, was the first part 

 woven, but in the aronui it was the last. 



Paraivai : A large cloak of same material as above. It 

 had no thrums. 



Parakiri : Same material. Taniko on two sides only ; 

 none on lower end (remu). A large cloak, with no thrums. 



Horihori : Same material. Taniko on sides only. No 

 thrums. 



Koroioai : Same material. A fine large cloak. No taniko, 

 but the white ground covered with thrums of fibre dyed black. 

 This garment is still made. 



