TEA AND SILK FAR:\nXG IX NEW ZEALAND. 209 



natives, although as yet it has developed none of the qualities 

 or fragi^ance of the finished leaf. In this condition it is packed 

 in bags, and finds its wslj from great distances in the interior to 

 Hankow, Canton, Hong Kong, Amoy, Xingpo, Shanghai, and 

 other ports, where facilities exist for roasting, manipulating, 

 firing, and packing. On arrival, the sun-dried leaves are thinly 

 spread out as before, on large shallow trays or mat«, under 

 partial cover, and are frequently moved and tossed about in the 

 sun's rays. The result is, that the tea, having been grown on a 

 ferruginous soil, the formation of the tannic acid which ensues, 

 united to the combined action of the sun and air, speedily 

 darkens the leaf and develops the tannin on which the strength 

 of the infusion and value of the article ultimately in a great 

 measure depends. It is usual, in what may be designated " the 

 oxygenising shed," to have manipulating tables at hand, so that 

 the leaves may be subjected to alternate exposure to the sun and 

 a series of tossings, curlmgs, and rollings. In the chamber ad- 

 joining, it passes into the hands of the regular manipulators, who 

 subject it to precisely the same handling they give green tea, 

 except that up to this point no artificial heat has been applied. 

 Although apparently dry at the commencement of the process,, 

 it has now become, from frequent fingering, moist and flaccid, 

 and in a favouraljle condition to be piled in Httle heaps in the 

 fermenting chamber. Unlike the generality of Chinese apart- 

 ments, this one is kept scrupulously clean both outside and in, 

 and is provided with flue arrangements for stove heat if neces- 

 sary. Fermentation is rarely long delayed, the first visible efi'ect 

 being a decided darkening of the leaves, caused by the chemical 

 action of the oxygen of the air upon the tannin of the leaves 

 and the iron distributed through their tissues. This symptom 

 is shortly followed by the emission of a fragrant odour, which 

 marks the formation of the volatile oil upon whicli the future 

 flavour of the tea depends, increasing as the fermentation ad- 

 vances. From one hour to one hour and a half is usually 

 necessary to produce the desired chemical transformation, and 

 so critical is this process as it nears its close, that the slightest 

 neglect or delay in arresting it at the proper moment, and the 

 immediate removal of tlie particular heap, may result in the 

 ruin of the whole contents of the chamber. The Chinese j.K)ssess 

 no certain test for the estimation of this crisis, but trust entirely 

 to experience and watchfulness; the period for withdrawing the 

 leaves being dictated partly by their colour, partly by the degree 

 of heat evolved, ascertained by ]>lungiiig the hand in the lieaj), 

 and I'artly by the strength and pungency of the fragrance ex- 

 lialed. Nevertheless, their patient skill is such that errors rarely 

 occur, and sour tea, at one time so common and annoying in con- 

 nection with our Indian gardens, is never met with. Should 



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