Raspberry Manayemeni and the Netr Raspberries. 209 



tion were asked, do raspberries do well in your section ? you would say yes. 

 Any farmer may plant a patch in the corner of the garden or along the fence 

 and just let them alone, and he will have plenty of berries for the family; but 

 suppose he tries two or tliree acres in this way and undertakes to market 

 them for profit; he would certainly fail. But the intelligent fruit-grower who 

 has learned all the conditions necessary to success may select the varieties 

 known to do well in his soil and climate and apply these conditions, and 

 reasonably good proHts will accrue. The object in growing raspberries, after 

 we have plenty for the family, is the money we can make out of the business. 



If we wish to go right, then we must sUirt right; we must learn (and that 

 is our object in coming together here). Is our soil adapted ? If we have that 

 that Avill produce a good crop of corn, we consider it good for raspberries 

 What exposure is best, and why ? Land sloping gently to any point, except 

 south, or southwest, because not so liable to shorten the crop of fruit in 

 ripening, or the growth of canes later in the season by drought; besides, the 

 sun has less power on the canes before and after sudden freezing, which is 

 the principal cause of what is c tiled winter-killing. The prej^aration of the 

 land before planting is a matter of great importance, for on this depends the 

 growth of canes the first year and the crop of fruit the second, as well as for 

 years after. The land should be ploughed deep, the deeper the better, and 

 well pulverized, then marked off in rows seven feet (most growers say six, 

 but seven gives more room to cultivate and pick), with shovel plow, and the 

 plants placed three feet apart in the furrow, and a little dirt drawn around 

 them to hold them in place until the furrow is filled from each side with the 

 same kind of plow. 



The middles should not be planted :'n any other crop, as is the custom of 

 some growers, especially new beginners, and where land is valuable, as a 

 matter of economy. I question the economy in any case. The land should 

 be thoroughly cultivated through the growing season, and the plants topped 

 at a foot high to cause laterals to push out. In the following spring these 

 laterals should be cut back to six inches long, and the land cultivated before 

 the buds start, and again after the fruit is picked. The yearly after-treatment 

 will be the same, except that the topping will naturally be a little higher each 

 year. I would say here that the great mistake of most growers is in leaving 

 too much wood. Better have fewer berries in number and more in measure- 

 ment. 



The above applies to both red and black varieties, with the exception that 

 red is seldom pruned at all and is almost always allowed to grow in a mass or 

 hedge row. Some growers, however, have practiced summer pinching to a ^ 



limited extent and claim that it works well. Others cut back to one-third or 

 one-half of the cane early in sjiring and say that it is right. I have prac- 

 ticed this on the Thwack for several years and find it works well. 



When we come to talk about varieties we have a long list to consider, both 

 a-ed and black, but my experience being limited to a few of the leading va- 

 rieties, I shall name only such, and would say to those who wish to plant, if 

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