SECRETARY'S REPORT. 87 



them without peeling or seasoning. There must be such a 

 standard ; else how should dairymen know what to aim at ? how 

 should buyers know what prices to offer, or what to select ? how 

 should judges at cheese shows decide where to award pi-emiums ? 

 The standard may differ slightly in different countries, but it is 

 substantially the same. What is it ? Mr. Willard, a most intelli- 

 gent dairyman, and the author of an excellent paper on the subject, 

 says of a Herkimer county cheese, forty days old, lying on the 

 table ready to be boxed for market : " It is of a rich creamy, or 

 golden color, with a firm, smooth and elastic rind ; it is of good 

 proportions, its circumference gently swelling out, giving it the 

 appearance of plumpness and completeness ; it is free from cracks, 

 mould, or outward imperfection. Under the hand it has that pecu- 

 liarly firm, yet soft, velvety texture, which to the expert is always 

 satisfactory evidence of its quality ; it is neither hard nor too soft, 

 but will feel mellow rather than elastic when pressed by the finger. 

 This cheese since it came from the press has never leaked whey ; 

 it has never huffed even during the hottest weather, and can at 

 such time be safely sent to market. Bore it with your tryer and 

 you will find it mellow, firm and solid, with a mild, pleasant flavor, 

 rich, buttery and melting in the mouth, — a cheese which will sell 

 in the market for the highest price." 



Now let us see what our Transatlantic cousins say. Of the 

 judges at the great cheese show in Cheshire, in 1858, Mr. Corderoy, 

 of London, says, " We want cheeses rich, solid, fine flavored, true 

 colored, (i, e. of even color throughout,) firm, sound, handsome, 

 and that will go on to improve for twelve months or longer if re- 

 quired." 



Mr. Bate, of Cheshire, says, " The characteristics of a good 

 cheese are mellow and rich in taste and flavor, and firm and full in 

 texture, solid, but not tough." 



Mr. Patterson, of Edinburgh, says, " A good cheese is rich, 

 without being greasy, with a sweet, nutty flavor, clear, equal color 

 throughout, and of a compact, solid texture, without being waxy ; 

 firm, and yet melt easily in the mouth, leaving no rough or ill flavor 

 on the palate." 



Mr. Harding, of Somerset, says, "A good cheese is* close and 

 firm in texture, yet mellow ; in character or quality it is rich, with 

 a tendency to melt in the mouth ; the flavor full and fine, approach- 

 ing that of a hazlenut." 



