104 BOARD OF AGRICULTURE. 



soon as whey forms rapidly, and the curd sinks, a gentle heat is to 

 be applied, and the whole mass very sloivhj warmed. If the vat be 

 inconveniently full, a portion of the whey may be first dipped out. 

 The thermometer must be frequently used to determine the tem- 

 perature, which should not exceed 100° in any case. A heat of 98° 

 is sufficient if properly continued ; the whole mass must be gently 

 and constantly worked with the cutting-knife, so that all parts may 

 be equally cooked and also to divide the curd into still smaller 

 particles. The time required for cooking the curd varies consider- 

 ably by reason of many attendant circumstances, such as the degree 

 of acidity of the milk, the temperature of the atmosphere, the quick- 

 ness with which the curd came, &c., &c. If the curd come quick, 

 it will cook quick ; if the degree of acidity be considerable, it will 

 cook quicker than if neutral. The time required is rarely less than 

 an hour, although sometimes not more than thirty minutes ; and it 

 is not often more than two hours, although I have known the cook- 

 ing to be protracted in rare cases to three hours or more. An 

 hour and a quarter to two hours is about the time usually neces- 

 sary. The curd by this constant working becomes finely divided, 

 the particles not larger than peas, and both by reason of being 

 kept in motion (so that all may cook alike,) and by the action of 

 heat upon them, they do not unite or run together ; for as the cook- 

 ing pi-ogresses, the warmth acts chemically upon them, causing 

 them to contract, to disengage a portion of the whey, to become 

 more firm and somewhat elastic. 



Just when the process is complete and the cooking should cease, 

 is a point upon which the instruction of a competent teacher and 

 careful observation and attention on the part of the learner is more 

 needful than upon any other. It cannot be definitely described in 

 words. As the cooking progresses the curd becomes firmer in 

 texture, it loses its glossy look, it holds the buttery portion in 

 closer combination with itself, so that rough usage will disengage 

 less of it than before, and its color deepens somewhat; the milky 

 look it had is changed to a creamy one. The particles are now 

 not larger than grains of wheat, certainly not larger than peas and 

 wheat mixed. An old rule, but a rather imperfect one, is that 

 when the curd will "squeak" it is sufficiently done. The skilled 

 dairy-maid judges by a certain granular feel, and by the general 

 appearance and elasticity of the curd, as a handful taken up and 

 squeezed falls apart when the hand opens. If the cooking be in- 



