VOYAGE UP THK COAST TO PARA. 133 



at the house of Dr. Mendes, an old acquaintance of Major 

 Coutinho. It was blowing hard and raining when we left 

 the steamer ; our boat put into the beach in a heavy surf, 

 and I was wondering how I should reach the shore, when 

 two of our negro rowers jumped into the water, and, stand- 

 ing at the side of the boat behind me, motioned me to 

 come, crossing their arms basket-fashion, as we do some- 

 times to carry children. They looked as if it were the or- 

 dinary mode of conveyance, so I seated myself, and with 

 one arm around the neck of each of my black bearers, 

 they laughing as heartily as I did, I was landed trium- 

 phantly on the sands. After the first greetings at the house 

 of Dr. Mendes were over, we were offered the luxurv of 



tt 



a bath before breakfast. The bath is a very important 

 feature in a Brazilian household. This one was of the size 

 of a small room, the water (about two feet deep and of a 

 delicious, soft, velvety character) constantly flowing through 

 over the smooth sand floor. They are often larger than 

 this, from four to five feet deep, and sometimes lined 

 with blue and white tiles, which make a very clean and 

 pretty floor. It is a great luxury in this warm climate, 

 and many persons bathe several times a day. The bath- 

 house is usually in the garden, at a convenient distance 

 from the house, but not immediately adjoining it. The 

 bath was followed by an excellent breakfast, after which 

 we drove through the city. Ceara is a wonderfully pro- 

 gressive town for Brazil. Five years ago it had not a 

 paved street ; now all the streets are well paved, with 

 good sidewalks, and the city is very carefully laid out, 

 with a view to its future growth.* To-day we are again 



* Here, as elsewhere, I found ready and willing coadjutors among ama- 

 teur collectors. On my return from the Amazons, many months later, I found 



