FROM PARA TO MANAOS. 163 



and then crossing one of the forest creeks on the logs. 

 Seeing that I was rather timid, he cut for me a long pole, 

 with the aid of which I felt quite brave. But at last we 

 came to a place where the water was so deep that I could 

 not touch bottom with my pole, and as the round log on 

 which I was to cross was rather rocking and unsteady, 

 I did not dare to advance. I told him, in my imperfect 

 Portuguese, that I was afraid. " Nao, mia branca " (No, 

 my white) he said, reassuringly ; " nao tern medo " (don't 

 be afraid). Then, as if a thought struck him, he motioned 

 me to wait, and, going a few steps up the creek, he unloosed 

 his boat, brought it down to the spot where we stood, and 

 put us across to the opposite shore. Just beyond was his 

 pretty, picturesque home, where he showed me his children, 

 telling me their ages, and introduced me to his wife. There 

 is a natural courtesy about these people which is very at- 

 tractive, and which Major Coutinho, who has lived among 

 them a great deal, tells me is a general characteristic of 

 the Amazonian Indians. When we took leave of them 

 and returned to the canoe, I supposed our guide would 

 simply put us across to the other shore, a distance of a 

 few feet only, as he had done in coming. Instead of that 

 he headed the canoe up the creek into the wood. I shall 

 never forget that row, the more enchanting that it was 

 so unexpected, through the narrow water-path, overarched 

 by a solid roof of verdure, and black with shadows ; and 

 yet it was not gloomy, for outside, the sun was setting in 

 crimson and gold, and its last beams struck in under the 

 boughs and lit the interior of the forest with a warm glow. 

 Nor shall I easily forget the face of our Indian friend, who 

 had welcomed us so warmly to his home, and who evidently 

 enjoyed our exclamations of delight and the effect of the 



