RETURN TO MANAOS. 251 



CHAPTER VIII. 



RETURN TO MANAOS. AMAZONIAN PICNIC. 



ARRIVAL AT MANAOS. NEW QUARTERS. THE "!BICUHY." NEWS FROM 

 HOME. VISIT TO THE CASCADE. BANHEIRAS IN THE FOREST. EXCUR- 

 SION TO LAKE HYANUARY. CHARACTER AND PROSPECTS OF THE A.MA/.O.MAN 

 VALLEY. PIECEPTION AT THE LAKE. DESCRIPTION OF SITIO. SUCCESSFUL 

 FISHING. INDIAN VISITORS. -INDIAN BALL. CHARACTER OF THE DAN- 

 CING. DISTURBED NIGHT. CANOE EXCURSION. SCENERY. ANOTHER 

 SITIO. MORALS AND MANNERS. TALK WITH THE INDIAN WOMEN. LIFE 

 IN THE FOREST. LIFE IN THE TOWNS. DINNER-PARTY. TOASTS. 

 EVENING Row ON THE LAKE. NIGHT SCENE. SMOKING AMONG THE 

 SENHORAS. RETURN TO MANAOS. 



October 2th. Manaos. We reached Manaos yesterday. 

 As we landed in the afternoon, and as our arrival had not 

 been expected with any certainty, we had to wait a little 

 while for lodgings ; but before night we were fairly estab- 

 lished, our corps of assistants and all our scientific appa- 

 ratus, in a small house near the shore, Mr. Agassiz and 

 myself in an old, rambling edifice, used when we were 

 here before for the public treasury, which is now removed 

 to another building. Our abode has still rather the air of 

 a public establishment, but it is very quaint and pleasant 

 inside, and, from its open, spacious character, is especially 

 agreeable in this climate. The apartment in which we 

 have taken up our quarters, making it serve both as 

 drawing-room and chamber, is a long, lofty hall, opening 

 by a number of doors and windows on a large, green 

 enclosure, called by courtesy a garden, but which is, after 

 all, only a ragged space overgrown with grass, and having 

 a few trees in it. Nevertheless, it makes a pleasant back- 

 ground of shade and verdure. At the upper end of our 



