EXCURSION TO MAUHES AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 311 



genuine Indian. I did not see a change of expression on 

 any face or hear a word of acknowledgment or pleasure. 

 The only smile was when, being tired with standing in the 

 sun, I sat down among the women, and, as the things were 

 passed rapidly around the circle, I was taken for one of 

 them, and received a very gay gown for my share. This 

 caused a general shout of laughter, and seemed to delight 

 them greatly. We returned to the steamer to breakfast 

 at ten o'clock, and in the afternoon the whole village came 

 out to satisfy their curiosity about the vessel. They are 

 a generous people. I never go among them without re- 

 ceiving some little present, which it would be an insult 

 to refuse. Such as they have they offer to the stranger ; 

 it may be a fruit, or a few eggs, or a chicken, a cuia, 

 a basket or a bunch of flowers, but their feelings would 

 be wounded were you to go away empty-handed. On 

 this occasion the daughter of the chief brought me a 

 fine fat fowl, another woman gave me a basket, and an- 

 other a fruit which resembles very much our winter 

 squash, and is used in the same way. I was glad to 

 have with me some large beads and a few little pictures 

 of saints with which to acknowledge their gifts. But I 

 believe they do not think of any return ; it is simply a 

 rite of hospitality with them to make their guest a 

 present. They went over the vessel, heard the cannon 

 fired off, and, as the captain took them on a little ex- 

 cursion, they saw the machine and the wheels in action ; 

 but they looked at all with the same calm, quiet air of 

 acceptance, above, or perhaps one should rather say below, 

 any emotion of surprise. For is not the readiness to re- 

 ceive new impressions, to be surprised, delighted, moved, 

 one of the great gifts of the white race, as different from 



