118 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION 



here or their blacks, or which have been formed by the 

 others ; but in either case the example is bad. The 

 white men are all the time complaining that the blacks 

 will not work, and they themselves do nothing. The 

 white men complain further that they cannot trust the 

 faithless blacks, and they set them a dubious model. 

 We lived at a regular tavern, where the legal charge 

 per day for 3 persons and 3 horses was 5 Spanish dol- 

 lars (12 fl. Rhenish), and for four long days we had 

 nothing but old geese, suckling pigs, and raw salad, 

 there being no vinegar to be had in the whole place. 

 Here was much a-do about nothing ; half a dozen 

 negroes were running about the house all day, and 

 nothing was attended to, unless one saw to it himself. 

 Exterior courtesies increased with the latitude south; 

 the negroes make low bows, partly from imitation, 

 partly by order of their proud masters ; the people in 

 the northern parts require nothing of the sort of their 

 negroes, they themselves having no such practices. 



When at last on the fourth day the expected boat for 

 ferrying-over the horses arrived, the next morning 

 was fixed for the passage, and everything arranged ; 

 but although we had now a right to hope for prompt 

 service for once, we found ourselves deceived again 

 when we came to the water-side at 8 o'clock. The 

 gentleman who kept the ferry was still sleeping quietly 

 in bed; we had to rouse him up, and then wait until 

 he had called together a dozen negroes who were to 

 look for two others whose business it was to tend the 

 boat, which they only now began to make ready ; more 

 time lost. I mention this vexatious delay of purpose, 

 and should not forget to add that we had other similar 

 experiences. Travellers therefore must have a good 



