BUTTER DAIRYING. 123 



mer, that dairyman whose product is satisfactory in texture and 

 flavor, but deficient in color, should correct the fault by the use of 

 some of the preparations for that purpose, to the use of which there 

 can be no possible objection. 



Before discussing the process of churning and working, a brief 

 explanation of what is understood by the grain of butter, seems 

 appropriate, and in this connection, I can use no language of m}^ 

 own to so fully illustrate the point, as that of Prof. Arnold : Butter 

 is made up of the fat globules in milk which adhei-e, after having 

 been divested of their delicate membraneous envelopes by churning, 

 and that these little atoms of fat are themselves made up of several 

 varieties of fatt}' elements. These elements have in each globule, 

 not only a definite composition, but also a definite organization. 



When butter can be churned and woi'ked so as to leave the dis- 

 robed granules of fat whole, or nearly so, if a piece of it at sixty 

 degrees or below is broken in two it will show a clear and distinct 

 fracture like broken cast iron, and when the fracture is viewed it 

 will show a granular structure. This unbroken, and undisturbed 

 condition of the granules of fat is what constitutes the grain of 

 butter. In this condition butter has its best flavor, and best keep- 

 ing qualities. If the churning, working, and handling has been 

 such as to mash and break the granules, the fatt}' elements com- 

 posing them become mixed, and the oil\' parts spread, and give the 

 whole a greas}' appearance, and the fractui'e instead of being distinct 

 like that of cast iron, will be more like a fracture of lard, green 

 putty, or salve. The more the atoms of fat are marked and broken 

 the more the flavor is depressed, and the sooner the butter spoils. 

 The difference in the keeping of butter, whether the grain is broken 

 or not, is ver}' great. When the grain is all right, butter may be 

 kept under great disadvantages, and almost anywhere. If the grain 

 is spoiled it will hardly keep long under an}' circumstances, and the 

 flavor is about as much aff"ected as the keeping. In all the pro- 

 cesses, therefore, of making and handling butter, the preservation 

 of the grain should be kept constantly in view, and those methods 

 adopted which will do it the least violence, and have the least ten- 

 dency to make it appear greasy. The right temperature too must 

 be observed, for if too cold when manipulated the granules will grind 

 against each other and be injured by friction, and if too warm the 

 gi'uin is spoiled b}' the too easy mixing of the softened fats. The 

 object of churning is to divest the milk globules of their delicate 



