92 To the River Plate and Back 



taken at large expense to provide a system of break- 

 waters, enclosing a great area in which ships may safely 

 ride at anchor. We steamed slowly and carefully to the 

 entrance and slipped through the narrow passage which 

 has been left where the breakwaters, lying at right 

 angles to each other, nearly meet. The spume, driven 

 by the southeaster which was blowing, fell in great 

 sheets over the walls, on which, nevertheless, here and 

 there were standing groups of men and boys casting 

 their fishing-lines into the waves, and now and then 

 bringing up a fish, which flashed white in the sunshine. 

 The anchors went down and we waited impatiently for 

 the officers of the port to come on board and grant us 

 pratique. After an hour had passed the formalities 

 were completed and we were informed that we might go 

 ashore, but that we must be on board again at eleven 

 o'clock, because the voyage would be resumed at mid- 

 night. It was nearly three o'clock in the afternoon 

 when we found ourselves on terra firma. 



The older portion of Montevideo is located on a ridge 

 which juts out westward in the form of a low promon- 

 tory, north and west of which is a shallow semicircular 

 bay, at the western extremity of which stands the Cerro, 

 surmounted by fortifications over which rise the tall 

 masts of the wireless signaling station. On the eastern 

 side the promontory faces the open waters of the ap- 

 parently boundless estuary, the left bank of which 

 trends to the northeast. On this side beyond the city 

 limits are low shelving beaches, on which in recent years 

 have arisen numerous bathing resorts. One of the most 

 frequented beaches is the Playa Ramirez, behind which 

 on higher ground is a great park (Parque Urbano), 

 Farther to the east on the low shore are Pocitos and 

 Capurro with beautifully arranged gardens and drive- 



