ioo To the River Plate and Back 



delta of the Parana lying far above the city of Buenos 

 Aires, the fishes in the upper part of the stream were 

 infected as much as in the lower portions. 



About nine o'clock in the morning we began to dis- 

 cern the groves of eucalyptus-trees, the tall chimneys, 

 and the roofs of the loftier buildings of Ensenada, the 

 port of the city of La Plata; and then the still taller 

 eucalyptus-trees which fill the parks and line the 

 avenues of the city of La Plata itself. It was all very 

 distant and indistinct. Even a powerful glass failed to 

 reveal much. Ahead of us several small Argentinian 

 war- vessels were manceuvering. The larger men-of-war 

 of the Argentine fleet have their rendezvous much 

 farther to the south, at Bahia Blanca. 



About noon we entered the channel, which has been 

 dredged through the muddy bottom of the river for 

 many miles, and which leads to the entrance of the 

 docks at Buenos Aires. The city like a low grey cloud 

 hung along the horizon, its features as yet scarcely 

 distinguishable. So recently as twenty years ago large 

 vessels coming to Buenos Aires were compelled to 

 anchor in the stream six or seven miles from the city. 

 Passengers and goods were carried in small lighters and 

 boats to the shore, and final landing was often effected 

 by means of carts with high wheels, which were driven 

 out into the water alongside of the boats, which, unless 

 quite small, could not reach the bank. This state of 

 affairs was adjudged to be no longer tolerable, and 

 accordingly a large loan was effected, and at an expense 

 of more than $70,000,000 the present North and South 

 Docks were constructed, and the channel through which 

 we were slowly steaming was dug. It is just wide 

 enough to allow two vessels to pass each other. Its 

 course is a mathematically straight line until, as it 



