318 To the River Plate and Back 



voyage. From the time we left Rio de Janeiro until 

 we had passed Pernambuco the land was always in 

 sight. Sometimes we were quite close to it, and with 

 the aid of our glasses could observe what was taking 

 place on shore. The mountain scenery for some dis- 

 tance north of Rio de Janeiro was very attractive. 

 Farther north the mountains were replaced by low 

 hills. The whole coast is skirted by coral-reefs, over 

 which the white surf tumbled. Back of the still water 

 behind the reefs w r ere broad, sandy beaches. Along the 

 shore are endless groves of coco-palms. Under the sha- 

 dow of these we could see the thatched huts of the fish- 

 ermen, sometimes closely clustered together and forming 

 extensive villages. Now and then a lighthouse appeared, 

 but the lighthouses on this coast are not numerous, 

 and but very few of them are powerfully equipped. 

 Fishermen were constantly seen in the daytime ply- 

 ing their calling upon the water. We passed a number 

 of them below Pernambuco far out from the shore, and 

 near enough to hail them from the deck. The craft 

 they use are exceedingly primitive. They are known 

 by the native name of " xangadas." In reality they are 

 simply rafts, not more than from twelve to fourteen feet 

 long and from five to six feet wide, made of bamboos 

 and other light woods, the pieces lashed and clamped 

 together. They carry a shoulder-of-mutton sail raised 

 on a jury-mast, which is usually a stout bamboo pole, 

 sunk in a socket, out of which it can be jerked in an 

 instant, if necessary. Both fore and aft there is a rude 

 seat, or bench, made of bamboo, with rowlocks at the 

 ends. The vessels carry a couple of sweeps, which may 

 be used as oars or rudders. Just aft of the mast, 

 lashed in place, is always a barrel, which serves as hold 

 for cargo, and into which the fish are put as they are 



