48 A JOURNEY m BRAZIL. 



ing their summits here and there, and they glimmer all 

 along the shore for two or three miles on either side of 

 the central, business part of the town. 



Soon after our arrival Mr. Agassiz received an official 

 visit from a custom-house agent, saying that he had 

 orders to land all our baggage without examination, and 

 that a boat would be sent at any day and hour convenient 

 to him to bring his effects on shore. This was a great 

 relief, as the scientific apparatus, added to the personal 

 luggage of so large a party, makes a fearful array of boxes, 

 cases, &c. It would be a long business to pass it all 

 through the cumbrous ceremonies of a custom-house. 

 This afternoon, while Mr. Agassiz had gone to San Chris- 

 tovao * to acknowledge this courtesy and to pay his respects 

 to the Emperor, we were wandering over a little island 

 (Ilka das Enxadas) near which our ship lies, and from 

 which she takes in coal for her farther voyage. The 

 proprietor, besides his coal-wharf, has a very pretty house 

 and garden, with a small chapel adjoining. It was my 

 first glimpse of tropical vegetation and of Brazilian life, 

 and had all the charm of novelty. As we landed, a group 

 of slaves, black as ebony, were singing and dancing a 

 fandango. So far as we could understand, there was a 

 leader who opened the game with a sort of chant, ap- 

 parently addressed to each in turn as he passed around 

 the circle, the others joining in chorus at regular intervals. 

 Presently he broke into a dance which rose in wildness 

 and excitement, accompanied by cries and ejaculations. 

 The movements of the body were a singular combination 

 of negro and Spanish dances. The legs and feet had the 

 short, jerking, loose-jointed motion of our negroes in 



* The winter palace of the Emperor. 



