280 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 



lanterns. Every now and then, as we were on our way, 

 a ball-dress would emerge from the darkness of an oppo- 

 site corner, picking its way with great care along the 

 muddy ruts. When we had all assembled, however, I 

 did not see that any toilet had suffered seriously on the 

 road. The dresses were of every variety, from silks and 

 satins to stuff gowns, and the complexions of all tints, 

 from the genuine negro through paler shades of Indian 

 and negro to white. There is absolutely no distinction 

 of color here ; a black lady, always supposing her to be 

 free, is treated with as much consideration and meets 

 with as much attention as a white one. It is, however, 

 rare to see a person in society who can be called a genuine 

 negro ; but there are many mulattoes and marnelucos, that 

 is, persons having black or Indian blood. There is little 

 ease in Brazilian society, even in the larger cities ; still 

 less in the smaller ones, where, to guard against mistakes, 

 the conventionalities of town life are exaggerated. The Bra- 

 zilians, indeed, though so kind and hospitable, are a formal 

 people, fond of etiquette and social solemnities. On their 

 arrival, all the Senhoras were placed in stiff rows around 

 the walls of the dancing-room. Occasionally an unfortu- 

 nate cavalier would stray in and address a few words 

 to this formidable array of feminine charms ; but it was 

 not until the close of the evening, when the dancing had 

 broken up the company into groups, that the scene became 

 really gay. At intervals, trays of " doces ' and tea were 

 handed round, and at twelve there was a more solid repast, 

 at which all the ladies were seated, their partners standing 

 behind their chairs and waiting upon them. Then began 

 the toasts and healths, which were given and received with 

 great enthusiasm. After supper the dancing was renewed 



