lib' CUBA AND POETO RICO 



miles along the sen-front, past the hospitals, to the little 

 village of Chorerra, at the mouth of the Almendares. At 



this place stands an interesting old ruin known as the 

 Bucaneers' Fort, which was built in the earlier centuries. 

 The place is also of interest inasmuch as it was the site of 

 the first settlement of the present city of Havana in 1819. 

 Another goes south for several miles, past the aristocratic 

 residences of Cerro Street, to the little suburb of Jesus del 

 Monte. 



For its size Havana is exceptionally well , supplied with 

 public and private carriages. An excellent victoria can be 

 hired for two pesetas (forty cents) an hour. To avoid ex- 

 tortion from the cab-drivers, the lamp-posts are painted 

 various colors red for the central district, blue for the 

 second circle, and green for the outer. Thus the traveler 

 at once becomes aware when he gets beyond the radius, 

 and pays accordingly. Trouble with the Havanese hack- 

 coachman, usually a colored man and very civil, is of the 

 rarest occurrence. The picturesque volante, once as essen- 

 tially Cuban as the gondola is Venetian, has entirely dis- 

 appeared from the streets of the capital; victorias and 

 landaus have usurped the place of these old-style coaches, 

 excepting in the country, where they are often to be met 

 with on the highroads. 



Of Havana society, like all passing strangers who have 

 not penetrated its inner circles, I can say but little. Su- 

 perficially it resembles that of most of the cities of south- 

 ern Europe, and is principally devoted to innocent enjoy- 

 ment. The gentlemen have their clubs, which are large 

 and well adapted to the climate ; the ladies find occupation 

 in their benevolent and charitable organizations. All are 

 fond of dress and driving. The styles among the gentle 

 sex are mainly Parisian, while the men assume flannels, 

 duck, and linen in the daytime, with the universal dress- 

 suit at evening. The city in winter is the resort not only 

 of a large foreign population, including tourists and busi- 

 ness men, but of the principal planters of the sugar and 



