354 CUBA AND rOHTO 1UCO 



Anse is situated across the high mountain ranges, and is 

 reached by a picturesque road from St. Pierre, which rises 

 into the higher passes, and is shaded l>y tree-ferns, accom- 

 panied by graceful bamboo and arborescent grass. It is 

 in a region of black stones, out of which the houses are 

 built. Black volcanic boulders dot the hillsides, and even 

 the sands of the beach are black, and full of valuable 

 magnetic iron. The village is a small place, principally 

 noted for the wonderful expertness of its men in swim- 

 ming the breakers, and for the beauty of its female por- 

 teuses young girls who carry burdens upon their heads. 

 At Diamond Rock there is the tomb of the commander of 

 one of the English ships, and the remains of the cistern 

 which furnished the English with water while the rock was 

 fortified by them in 1844. 



Not less interesting than the natural features are the in- 

 habitants of this island, distinguished by beauty, thrift, and 

 a remarkable and peculiar individuality. In 1895 they 

 numbered nearly five hundred to the square mile, aggre- 

 gating 187,692 people, most of whom, except 1307, were 

 either blacks or members of that remarkable mixed race 

 which distinguishes the island. The mixed populations 

 show every variety of color and type, mulattos, copre, 

 chabin, and mates, but they T are generally healthy and 

 thriving. Traces of Caribbean blood are seen in their 

 color, physiognomy, and physical characteristics. Hearn 

 thus describes the population of Martinique: 



. Fantastic, astonishing a population of the " Arabian Nights.'^ 

 It is many-colored, but the general dominant tint is yellow. . . . 

 Straight as palms, and supple and tall, these colored women and 

 men impress one powerfully by their dignified carriage and easy 

 elegance of movement. All, or nearly all, are without shoes. . . . 

 Perhaps the most novel impression of all is that produced by the 

 singularity and brilliancy of certain of the women's costumes. 

 Some of these fashions suggest the Orient ; they offer beautiful 

 audacities of color contrast; and the full-dress coiffure, above all, 

 is most striking. It is an immense Madras handkerchief, which is 



