THE ISLAND OF MARTINIQUE 355 



folded about the head with admirable art, like a turban; one 

 bright end, pushed through at the top in front, being lefl Bticking 



up like a plume. Then this turban, always full of bright canary- 

 color, is fastened with golden brooches, one in front and one al 

 either side. As for the remainder of the dress, it is simple enough : 

 an embroidered, low-cut chemise with sleeves; a skirt, or jupe, 

 very long behind, but canghl up and fastened in front below tin- 

 breasts, so as to bring the hem everywhere to a level with the end 

 of the long chemise and finally a foulard, or silken kerchief, thrown 

 over the shoulders. These jupes and foulards, however, are ex- 

 quisite in pattern and color: brighl crimson, bright yellow, bright 

 blue, bright green, lilac, violet, rose, sometimes mingled in 

 plaidings or checkerings or stripings; black with orange, sky-blue 

 with purple. And whatever be the colors of the costume, which 

 vary astonishingly, the coiffure must be yellow brilliant, (lashing 

 yellow; the turban is certain to have yellow stripes or yellow 

 squares. To this display add the effect of costly and curious 

 jewelry : immense ear-rings, each pendant being formed of five gold 

 cylinders joined together, cylinders sometimes two inches long 

 and an inch at least in circumference; a necklace of one or many 

 rows of large, hollow gold beads, called coll'ur-choux. 



But few are thus richly attired ; the greater number of the 

 women, carrying burdens on their heads, peddling vegetables, 

 cakes, fruit, ready-cooked food, from door to door, are very sim- 

 ply dressed in a single plain robe of vivid colors (<l<>)iill, ft, \. reach- 

 ing from neck to feet, and made with a train, but generally girded 

 well up so as to sit close to the figure and leave the lower limbs 

 partly bare and perfectly free. These women can walk all day 

 long up and down hill in the hot sun, without shoes, carrying 

 Loads of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty pounds on 

 their heads : and if their little stock sometimes fails t<> com.- up to 

 the accustomed weight, stones are added to make it heavy enough. 



With the women the load is very seldom steadied with the hand. 



The head remains almost motionless: but the black, quick, pier- 

 cing eyes flash into every window and doorway to watch for a 

 Customer's Signal. These women also carry the produce across 

 mountain from plantation to seaport. 



Cornilliac ascribes tin- wonderful beauty of the Mar- 

 tinique women t< the admixture of Carib blood with that 



