FROM PARA TO MAXAOS. 175 







on the figures of the women and children as they mo^ed 

 about, and shed its glow under the thatched roof of the 

 working-room, making its interior warm and ruddy ; a 

 lantern in the corner of the porch threw a dim, uncertain 

 light over hammocks and half-recumbent figures, and with- 

 out, the moon shone over lake and forest. The mosquitoes, 

 however, presently began to disturb the romance of the 

 scene, and, as we were all rather tired from our broken 

 rest the night before, we retired early. My own sleep, 

 under an excellent mosquito-net, was very quiet and 

 refreshing, but there were some of the party who had 

 not provided themselves with this indispensable accompa- 

 niment of a hammock, and they passed the night in 

 misery, affording a repast to the voracious hordes buzzing 

 about them. I was awakened shortly after daylight by 

 the Indian women, bringing me a bouquet of roses and 

 jessamine from the vines which grew about the cottage, 

 and wishing me good morning. After such a kindly greet- 

 ing, I could not refuse them the pleasure of assisting at my 

 toilet, of watching the opening of my valise, and handling 

 every article as it came out. 



The night fishing was unfavorable, but this morning the 

 fishermen have brought in new species enough to keep 

 Mr. Agassiz and his artist busy for many hours, so that 

 we are likely to pass another night among these hospitable 

 people. I must say that the primitive life of the better 

 class of Indians on the Amazons is much more attractive 

 than the so-called civilized life in the white settlements. 

 Anything more bald, dreary, and uninviting than life in the 

 Amazonian towns, with an attempt at the conventionalisms 

 of civilization, but without one of its graces, I can hardly 

 conceive. This morning my Indian friends have been 



