RETURN TO MANAOS. 253 



again. This morning Mr. Agassiz received the official 

 document placing the steamer at his disposition, and also 

 a visit from her commander, Captain Faria. 



October 26th. Yesterday morning at six o'clock we 

 made our first excursion to a pretty spot much talked 

 of in Manaos on account of its attractions for bathing, 

 picnics, and country enjoyments of all sorts. It is called 

 the " little cascade," to distinguish it from a larger and, 

 it is said, a much more picturesque fall, half a league from 

 the city on the other side. Half an hour's row through a 

 winding river brings you to a rocky causeway, over which 

 the water comes brawling down in a shallow rapid. Here 

 you land, and a path through the trees leads along the 

 edge of the igarape* to a succession of " banheiras," as 

 they call them here ; and they are indeed woodland bathing- 

 pools fit for Diana and her nymphs, completely surrounded 

 by trees, and so separated from each other by leafy screens, 

 that a number of persons may bathe in perfect seclusion. 

 The water rushes through them with a delicious freshness, 

 forming a little cascade in each. The inhabitants make the 

 most of this forest bathing establishment while it lasts ; 

 the rise of the river during the rainy season overflows 

 and effaces it completely for half the year. While we were 

 bathing, the boatmen had lighted a fire, and when we re- 

 turned to the landing we found a pot of coffee simmering 

 very temptingly over the embers. Thus refreshed, we re- 

 turned to town just as the heat of the day was beginning to 

 be oppressive. 



October 28th. Yesterday morning, at about half past 

 six o'clock, we left Manaos on an excursion to the Lake 

 of Hyanuary on the western side of the Rio Negro. The 

 morning was unusually fresh for these latitudes, and a 



