MANAOS AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD. 279 



morning. I must say that as I went down the rough 

 steps to the landing, in the very pool where we had 

 bathed, it struck me that the undertaking was somewhat 

 perilous ; if this overshadowed nook was dark at noonday, 

 it was black at nightfall, and the turbulent little stream, 

 rushing along over rocks and logs, looked mischievous. The 

 rest of the party went with us to the embarkation, and, 

 as we disappeared in the darkness under the overhanging 

 branches, one of them called after us, laughingly, 



" Lasciate ogni speranza, voi che 'ntrate." 



However, there was only danger enough to laugh at, none 

 to give real concern, and I enjoyed the row through the 

 narrow channel, where the trees met overhead, and where 

 the boatmen were obliged to jump into the water to guide 

 the canoe among the boulders and fallen trunks. We 

 reached home in perfect safety, and in time to welcome 

 the others when they arrived on foot. 



November 8th. Manaos has been in unwonted agitation, 

 for the last few days, on the subject of a public ball to be 

 given in honor of Mr. Tavares Bastos. Where it should 

 take place, what should be the day and hour, and, among 

 the Senhoras, what one should wear, have been the subjects 

 of discussion. The doubtful questions were at last settled, 

 and it was appointed for the fifth of the month, in the 

 President's palace. "Palace 3 is the name always given 

 to the residence of the President of the province, however 

 little the house may be in keeping with the title. The 

 night was not so auspicious as could have been wished ; 

 it was very dark, and, as no such luxury as a carriage is 

 known here, the different parties might be seen groping 

 through the streets at the appointed hour, lighted with 



