302 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 



tain Faria. He has made every arrangement for our com- 

 fort which a vessel of war, not intended for passengers, can 

 afford, giving up his own quarters for my accommodation. 

 On deck he has arranged a little recess, sheltered, by a tar- 

 pauling from the sun and rain, to serve as a dining-room, 

 that we may take our meals in the fresh air instead of 

 dining in the close cabin below decks intended for this 

 purpose. 



The morning following our departure was an interesting 

 one, because we found ourselves at the mouth of the Ramos, 

 unknown to steam navigation, and about which the Captain 

 had some apprehensions, as he was by no means sure that 

 he should find water enough for his vessel. It was, there- 

 fore, necessary to proceed with great caution, sounding at 

 every step and sending out boats in advance, to ascertain 

 the direction of the channel. Once within the river, we 

 had depth of water enough to float much larger vessels. 

 The banks of this stream are beautiful. The forest was 

 gay with color, and the air laden with the rich perfume 

 of flowers, which, when we came up the Amazons six 

 months ago, were not yet in bloom. We were struck also 

 with the great abundance and variety of the palms, so 

 much more numerous on the lower course of the Amazons 

 than on the Solimoens. The shores were dotted with 

 thrifty-looking plantations, laid out with a neatness and 

 care which bespeak greater attention to agriculture than we 

 have seen elsewhere. Healthy-looking cattle were grazing 

 about many of the sitios. As the puff of our steam was 

 heard, the inhabitants ran out to gaze in amazement at 

 the unwonted visitant, standing in groups on the shores, 

 almost too much lost in wonder to return our greetings. 

 The advent of a steamer in their waters should be to them 



