460 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 



and it is at this time that epidemics are developed, such as 

 prevail now. It rains day and night for weeks at a time, till 

 everything is penetrated with dampness ; and when the hot 

 sun comes out upon the soaked and steaming earth, it is far 

 more injurious than in the dry season. One cannot wonder 

 at the prevailing sickness, for the humidity seems to per- 

 meate everything with subtle power. The walls, the floors, 

 the very furniture, your hammock at night and your 

 clothes in the morning, feel damp and have a sort of 

 clammy chill ; and the sun comes out with such fitful 

 gleams, that, intense as is its heat while it lasts, nothing be- 

 comes thoroughly dried. 



Toward nightfall we went to see the sunset from a boul- 

 der of enormous size, which seems to have stopped inexpli- 

 cably on the steep descent. It juts out from the mountain- 

 side, and commands even a more extensive view than the 

 house above. I could not help thinking, as we stood on the 

 edge of this immense mass of rock, that, as it seemed to 

 have stopped for no particular reason, it might start again 

 at any minute, and bring one to the bottom of the serra 

 with unpleasant rapidity. 



April 10th. Yesterday afternoon we returned to Paca- 

 tuba, descending the serra much more rapidly and with far 

 less fatigue than we had ascended. We would gladly have 

 availed ourselves longer of the pleasant hospitality of our 

 hosts, who very graciously urged us to stay ; but time is 

 precious, and we are anxious not to miss the next steamer. 

 Donna Maria's kindness followed us down the mountain, 

 however, for scarcely had we reached the house before an 

 excellent dinner stewed fowls, beef, vegetables, etc. ar- 

 rived, borne on the heads of two negroes. When I saw the 

 load these men had brought so steadily down the same path 



