CEARA. 461 



over which I had come rolling, pitching, tumbling, sliding, 

 any way, in short, but walking, I envied their dexterity, 

 and longed to be as sure-footed as these shoeless, half naked, 

 ignorant blacks. To-day we leave Pacatuba for the house 

 of Senhor Franklin, on our way back to Ceara. 



April 12th. On the 10th we returned to Monguba, 

 where we passed that day and the following night at the 

 fazenda of our friends, the Franklins. The next morning 

 we had intended to start at six o'clock on our way to the 

 city. No sooner were the horses at the door, however, and 

 the pack-mules ready, than a pouring rain began. We 

 waited for it to pass, but it was followed by shower after 

 shower, falling in solid sheets. So the day wore on till 

 twelve o'clock, when there was a lull, with a prospect of 

 fine weather, and we started. I could not help feeling some 

 anxiety, for I remembered the streams we had forded in 

 coming, and wondered what they would be after these tor- 

 rents. Fortunately, before we reached the first of them, we 

 met two negroes, who warned us that there was a great deal 

 of water on the road. We hired them to come on with us, 

 and guide my horse. When we reached the spot it really 

 looked appalling. The road was inundated to a consider- 

 able distance, and the water rushed across it with great vio- 

 lence, having in many places a depth of four or five feet, 

 and a strong current. If there had been a sound bottom 

 to rely upon, the wetting would have been nothing; but 

 the road, torn up by the rains, was full of holes and deep 

 gullies, so that the horses, coming unexpectedly on these 

 inequalities, would suddenly flounder up to their necks in 

 water, and recover their footing only by kicking and plung- 

 ing. We crossed four such streams, one man leading my 

 horse while the gentlemen followed close behind, and the 



