REPORTS FROM LOCAL SOCIETIES. 105 



our fruit unmolested, I would mulch my orchard heavily and let it lie from 

 year to year. It must be evident to every fruitgrower's mind, that examines 

 this subject fairly and candidly, that this mulch which has its exceptional bene- 

 fits, must, when practiced independent of other modes of cultivation, bring 

 disaster and ruin to the fruit grower. 



WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THOROUGH CULTIVATION? 



I don't believe that man ever has or ever will devise any method or scheme 

 by which he will be enabled to subvert the divine command given to Adam 

 when he was placed in the garden of Eden, to "dress the soil and keep it." I 

 wish I was competent to write a volume on this subject of thorough tillage. 

 This and complete drainage are the basis of all successful fruit growing, if 

 properly and intelligently carried out. 



The benefits of cultivation by the use of plow and harrow, fork and rake are 

 so many that it leaves no room for any very formidable objections, which to 

 any mind can not be overcome. Very much depends upon the implements 

 used, and also the applications of the various fertilizers which are necessary to 

 successful fruit raising. Now Ave come to the practical question, 



HOW SHALL WE CULTIVATE OUR ORCHARDS? 



AVhile an orchard of any kind is young (except standard Pears and Cherries), 

 and until it commences to bear heavy crops of fruit, it is well to plow deep between 

 the rows so long as we do not interfere with the young roots. But as the trees 

 get larger we must work more shallow and farther away from the trees, so that 

 when an orchard has been set ten or twelve years the plowing should be done 

 with one horse, and not more than four inches deep. This plowing should 

 be done both ways to and from the trees, three or four times before the middle 

 of July, and harrowed with a fine toothed barrow at least one dozen times be- 

 fore the first of August. If the teeth, of the harrow are not more than six 

 inches clear of the beam and are bent so as to slant a little backwards it will 

 not injure the roots below the plowing, and that will give the roots the full 

 benefit of the rains and dews as well as the top dressing of compost whenever it 

 may be applied. If a cultivator is used, it should run very shallow, not deeper 

 than the plowing, for the nearer we can keep the roots to the surface of the 

 ground undisturbed, and at the same time well fertilized, the more perfect will 

 be the fruit. I would have this cultivation so thorough that no weeds or grass 

 could be found growing to rob the trees of moisture. I hardly think the codling 

 moth would find a safe place for the solo of his foot, bands or no bands on the 

 tree. But to make sure I would scrape the trees every year and wash with lye, 

 and thereby destroy all hiding places where he could spin his cocoon. I would 

 keep as many pigs and chickens as possible fenced into the orchard where it was 

 practicable, otherwise I would resort to the band and chip process, and make it 

 a war of extermination to be fought out on that line. But says one, " I thought 

 you said clean culture was dangerous in exposed places in winter?" Most cer- 

 tainly; but not without a mulch of some kind. If the soil is properly worked, 

 and moderately rich, I would sow oats or rye (should prefer oats), about the 

 first of August over the entire orchard for a mulch through the winter. This 

 does not cost so much as the straw, or hay, or saw-dust mulch, and is a better 

 protector, as it keeps the snow from blowing away, and is a good fertilizer to be 

 plowed under in the spring. It also allows of clean culture the first half of the 

 season, when they need it most, and serves to check the growth early in the 

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