126 STATE POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 



posit its clusters of yellowish eggs on the under side of the leaves of the 

 cucumber and allied plants as soon as they appear. The greyish larva, as soon 

 as it hatches, inserts its beak into the stem of the plant, sticks up the juice and 

 kills the vine. We may pick and destroy the leaves containing these eggs. If 

 we will protect the plants, by means of a box covered with thin muslin, until 

 they get a vigorous start they will not usually be much injured either by squash 

 bugs or cucumber beetles. In case of the beetles, sprinkling with lime, plaster 

 or plaster mixed with paris green, will to a considerable extent, protect the 

 vines. 



With these few brief and incomplete descriptions, I will close this essay, 

 hoping that each of you will study these insects, when working in his garden, 

 so when we talk over this subject again at some future time, a better history of 

 them may be given. 



GRAFTING AND PRUNING. 

 AN ESSAY READ BEFORE THE INGHAM COUNTY FARMERS' CLUB BY J. L. FULLER. 



Mr. Chairman, and Gentlemen of the Clxtb: 



I do not intend to-day to present any lengthy article on the subject of graft- 

 ing and pruning, believing that something short and condensed will be more 

 likely to meet your favor. 



It seems that the ancients became aware at a very early date, of the practica- 

 bility of growing different kinds of fruit on one root. The Roman writer, 

 Varro, mentioned upwards of twenty different modifications of grafting, and 

 Thouin, of Paris, a fruit experimenter of considerable note, described over one 

 hundred ways of changing the varieties. 



The process of top grafting is very simple, and it is astonishing that so man 

 of our farmers know almost nothing about it. Out of the many modes that ar 

 given, only a few are of practical value. 



AVe will first speak of cleft grafting, by which many old orchards that ar 

 almost worthless, may be very valuable. In sawing the top, care must be used, 

 or it will not be well balanced. In this windy country the strength of the tree 

 is an important consideration. The center of the tree should be kept open if 

 possible without sacrificing too many large limbs ; but if the tree is of much 

 size and has a main perpendicular stem, always allow it to remain, as it con- 

 tains the heart and has much to do with keeping up a healthy circulation of 

 sap. Novices in this business of changing the tops, are very apt to get them 

 too dense. They want to go out on the limbs, seldom cutting stocks larger 

 than two and one-half inches in diameter. However, if it is necessary to cut 

 very large limbs, insert four scions, allowing only two to grow after a year or 

 two. The next business after the top is sawed is to sharpen the scions. Take 

 the previous year's growth of the variety you wish to insert, and sharpen in the 

 form of a wedge, leaving the outside a little thicker ; then check the center of 

 the stub with a knife, inserting a wedge to hold the halves of the stub apart 

 while you place the graft so its outside bark will cross the bark of the stub. 

 This gives the scions a little pitch outward, allowing the buds, which should be 

 ^wo or three in number, to grow without interfering with each other. The end 

 and splits on the sides of the stub should then be tightly covered with a firm 

 wax made of resin, beeswax, tallow and linseed oil. In a moderate sized limb, 

 if both scions grow, it will make a tinner and better union to cut one away. I 



