54 STATE POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 



SMALL FRUITS FOR TIIE FARMERS' HOMES. 



My chief aim in this article Avill be to show how small fruits, for family use, 

 may be successfully grown with little care, in good garden soil. For 



STRAWBERRIES, 



the first and great requisite is a good, deep, rich sandy loam ; if the soil is of a 

 clayey nature, it must be well drained, or success in growing fine "large berrie3 

 must not be expected. On sandy or gravelly soil a fair crop may be obtained 

 in favorable seasons, but such soils are not the natural home for them, and 

 should be avoided if possible. The strawberry may be increased almost indef- 

 initely by runners. For summer planting I would advise the use of two-inch 

 flower pots; sink them in the ground up to the rim, fill with good soil, and lay 

 the end of the runner on it and place on it a small stone to keep it down ; in ten 

 days or two weeks it will be rooted and may be transplanted at any time, even 

 in hot dry weather, if jjrojjerly watered and shaded. All runners must be cut 

 off as fast as they appear, as each one will rob the plant of one fruit bud, and 

 as a matter of course will lessen the crop to that extent the following year. 

 With such management I have succeeded in raising a large crop of extra fine 

 berries the following year. A cheaper way is to plant last year's runners as 

 early in the spring as the ground can be worked. 



For garden culture, plant in rows two feet apart; set the plants at the dis- 

 tance of 12 inches ; cut off all the blossoms and runners as fast as they appear ; 

 as soon as the plants begin to grow, stir the ground often, and do not suffer a 

 weed to grow. 



In the fall, after the ground is frozen, mulch with clean straw or marsh 

 hay, two inches deep — more may smother the plants in a mild winter; in the 

 spring uncover the plants; let the mulch lay between the rows until the fruit- 

 ing season is over — but a better way is to take off the mulching entirely, dig 

 the soil over with a garden fork, but do not disturb the roots of the plants, 

 then replace the mulch — it will help to keep the ground cool and moist, both 

 very essential during flower and fruit season. Let me repeat, that the straw- 

 berry delights in a rich, friable soil, made so by the use of manure, leaves, ashes, 

 and muck. A compost of these should be worked over two or three times 

 during the summer, and after the ground is prepared the compost may be put 

 on and then you are ready to plant. A good crop will be your reward if the 

 spring frosts do not destroy your fondest hopes. 



For field culture, the rows should be three feet apart, and the plants set 12 

 inches apart in the row. A large part of the after work may be done with the 

 cultivator; in other respects the treatment should be the same as in garden 

 culture. For spring planting I would advise shortening the roots one-fourth; 

 this will increase the number of rootlets and give vigor to the plant. 



Few farmers raise the strawberry, and fewer still raise enough for a full 

 supply for family use. Such neglect is a burning shame, for they of all oth- 

 ers may and should enjoy to the fullest extent this health-giving luxury. 



RED AND BLACK RASPBERRIES 



succeed the strawberry, and as they add greatly to the health and pleasure of 

 the family, when freely used, they, too, should be grown by every farmer. 

 The Red liaspberry likes a cool and rather shady location and a rich soil. 



