290 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



pine; 14, dwarf pine; 15, Irish "juniper; 1C, Siberian arbor vitse; 17, globe 

 arbor vita? ; 18, heath-like arbor vitas. 



For street trees, I will name American elm, Norway maple, English elm, 

 basswood, black ash (in rich soil), horse-chestnut (on clay ground), sugar 

 maple (the last the least desirable). 



The best time to set deciduous-leaved trees is in spring before the buds start. 

 Set them on a still, cloudy day, if not too inconvenient. The best time to set 

 evergreens is just as the buds have began to push out and show the new leaves. 

 Trees are in the best condition to grow which have been grown in a nursery 

 where they have been several times transplanted. This trims the roots and 

 causes new roots to come out thickly near the stem. The roots, while out of 

 the ground, should be covered with a blanket or damp straw to protect them 

 from sun and wind. For success, the soil about newly set trees should be well 

 cultivated for three or five years for a distance of at least four feet each way 

 from the trees. The culture should be kept up till the trees become well estab- 

 lished. A heavy mulch, extending four feet from the tree, is a partial substi- 

 tute for cultivation. 



The man who gets tall, slender trees from the forests, with few roots attached, 

 and carries them some distance with the roots exposed to the broiling sun and 

 sharp wind and sets them in little holes in the sod, will surely be disappointed 

 if he expects to get pay for his labor. Perhaps I can do no better than to close 

 this paper with a list of trees which are tender or otherwise undesirable. Locust, 

 honey locust, silver-leaved poplar, Lombardy poplar, cottonwood, ailanthus, 

 red bud or Judas tree, most magnolias, mountain ash, weeping willow, weeping 

 ash, balsam fir (except when young), most evergreens from the Pacific coast, 

 English oak, golden arbor vita?, Chinese arbor vita?. 



He was followed by George W. Parks in a clear and practical paper on "fruit 

 trees, how to plant and time to plant." In selecting varieties he referred to 

 the list published in the Michigan state pomological report for 1879, which had 

 been prepared with great care. He advised thorough drainage of the soil, and 

 only rich earth should be worked in around the roots. Apple trees should be 

 planted in rows 30 feet apart each way, cherries and standard pears 20 feet, 

 dwarf pears 12 feet, plums 15 feet, peaches 18 feet, and quinces 8 feet. The 

 proper time to plant is when the buds are dormant. Spring seems to be the 

 most natural time, and in this locality they should not be planted later than 

 the middle of May. November was also mentioned as a good time to plant, 

 but care should be taken not to let the roots of the trees freeze while out of the 

 ground. 



L. B. Baker inquired if it would not be admissible to grow a row of grapes 

 between rows of apple trees set 30 feet apart. 



Mr. Parks replied that some other fruits, such as strawberries and raspber- 

 ries, would be more suitable. 



J. Ashworth said Mr. Yeomans, an extensive fruit-grower near Eochester, 

 N. Y., interlined his rows of apple trees with peach trees. 



Dr. 0. Marshall wanted a list of fruit trees especially adapted to this locality. 



Prof. Beal thought that, in time, by the reports of members of this society, 

 at future meetings, a better list for Ingham county could be furnished than 

 that for Central Michigan in the State pomological report. That list was 

 more appropriate for the region of Kalamazoo. 



Mr. Kowe, of Mason, asked for a list of best dwarf pears for this county. 



Mr. Parks named Duchesse de Angouleme, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Buffum, 

 Belie Lucrative, and for winter, Vicar of Winkfield. 



